General Travel Tips: Indonesia

Here’s your one-stop-shopping, bullet-point-style rundown on Indonesia travel!

• Watch out for men at bus stops and ferry ports who will tell you that the public bus, ferry, etc. is not coming. It isn’t true! Just continue on to the public ticket office (if looking for a ferry) or patiently wait for the public bus to come. You’re sure to get a better deal.
• Eat at warungs whenever possible! They’re way cheaper than tourist restaurants and often have better food.
• Get in good with the locals and you’ll get better deals. Sometimes all it takes is frequenting the same store or restaurant to become friendly with someone and ask for a bit of advice, like how much transportation from point A to point B should cost.
• High season is July/August, so plan for prices to go up during this time. Sometimes this overlaps with Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar that marks a period of fasting for Muslims worldwide. Indonesia is the largest Muslim country in the world, so if you go during Ramadan you’re sure to get a unique cultural experience depending on what islands you go to. However, Flores and Bali are mainly Christian and Hindu, respectively, so Ramadan won’t affect your experience there.
• Kite season in Bali is most active in June and July. We went during the tail-end of kite season (pun intended), and got to see just a little bit of this very pretty cultural activity—beautiful kites filling the skies during the evening. Quite a sight!
• Often hotels/homestays don’t provide blankets. So if blankets are really important to you, make sure you ask before you book your room.
• Most of the water is brackish, so unless you have your own filter, expect to buy bottled water. Another eco-friendly option is to bring your own reusable water bottle and have it filled at restaurants or convenience stores that offer to fill water bottles.
• Carry charcoal pills (norit), found at any pharmacy in Indonesia. A friend of ours recommended these in case we got “Bali belly,” a painful case of stomach cramps, nausea, and diarrhea often caused by drinking unfiltered water or eating fruits/veggies washed in bad water.
• Don’t do drugs!! The penalties for drug use in Southeast Asia are tough, and those who traffick drugs in Indonesia face the death penalty! Your status as a foreigner won’t get you off any easier, either. Don’t mess around with that stuff!
• Each of the islands is unique. You should make sure to island hop a bit (or you won’t get a clear picture of what Indonesia is like), but make sure you spend enough time on each island to appreciate it.
• When exchanging USD, use bigger bills. You’ll get better exchange rates for 100 dollar bills than for 50s, and better rates for 50s than 20s or 10s. Travelers checks get a lower rate than 100 dollar bills as well. ATMs will give you the best exchange rate. None of the ATMs we came across charged an extra fee, but you may be charged a foreign transaction fee by your bank at home.
• Ladies, dress modestly, especially if you don’t want any extra attention. Beachwear is permissible in touristy beach areas, but much of Indonesia is strictly Muslim, so be aware of your surroundings and respectful of the culture you’re traveling in.
• While traveling, keep your valuables on your person at all times! Keeping valuables in your larger suitcase/backpack to be stored on top/underneath of your bus or boat is a no-no! On almost every trip we took I got my backpack back with clips undone that definitely do not come undone of their own accord. Keep your camera/laptop/cash/cards in a smaller backpack or bag and do not store it in the overhead compartment in the bus (or at your feet if you’re sleeping). We met one traveler whose iPad was stolen from the compartment right above his head when he dozed off.
• What to buy: Here’s a heads up on some of the souvenirs you’ll find: Ornate wood and stone carvings, large and small (especially in Bali); Sasak wood carvings on Lombok, including the distinct Sasak decorative masks; sarongs from $4 and up, depending on quality; lots of colorful, baggy pants and dresses; contemporary and abstract art in Ubud, Bali; wooden utensils, bowls, etc.; handmade baskets.
• There is a 25,000 rupiah exit fee when flying out of the country. In at least some airports, the only accepted form of payment is Indonesian Rupiah, so make sure you set this money aside at the end of your trip!

*Note: These tips are based on our travel in Indonesia, which was limited to the islands of Bali, Lombok (and the Gili islands off Lombok), Sumbawa, and Flores.

Bali: Vibrant Culture and Breathtaking Beauty

After an exhausting 46 hours of travel from Hawai’i to Bali, Sarah and I were relieved to walk out of the tiny airport in Denpasar and find a smiling taxi driver holding up a piece of ripped cardboard with “Kimberley & Sarah” scribbled on it. The local time was a little after midnight, and I did my best to take in the sights during the 1 hour car ride to Ubud, Bali where we would be staying with my Uncle Mike and his family (Uncle Mike is my dad’s best friend from ages ago, and he and his family are wonderful. Shout out to Uncle Mike, Auntie Lisa, Shea, Emma, and Anne!). 

Bali has long been considered a tourist haven and is by far the most popular tourist destination in Indonesia. Although the vast majority of Indonesia’s population is Muslim (it’s the largest Islamic country in the world!), nearly 93% of the people on Bali are Hindu, making the culture and lifestyle here strikingly different from the rest of Indonesia. The culture of the Balinese people is distinct and beautiful. Bali is highly advanced in the arts and one can find a plethora of beautiful carvings, brightly colored paintings, sculptures, and metalworks here. One popular thing to experience while in Bali is the Balinese dancing (although we ended up skipping this). Lotus Cafe and The Palace, both located in Ubud, are great places to see it, and the price is around 80,000 rupiah (about $8.00) per person. 

Temple outside of Lotus Cafe (where the Balinese dancing takes place).

We stayed at the Bell’s home in Ubud for the entire 2 weeks we spent in Bali. One of the most amazing things we did in Bali was attend a cremation ceremony for a recently deceased Balinese king. This event is a huge deal for the Balinese people and only occurs once every few years (when a royal dies, of course). Many families who have a loved one pass away will wait to have a cremation ceremony (sometimes for years until one of the royals dies). The bodies are often buried temporarily until one of these ceremonies occurs, at which point the body is cremated (many Hindus believe that the body must be cremated or the path of reincarnation will be cut off). When the royal cremation ceremony occurs, the family puts the ashes into a large bull sculpture that they create specifically for the ceremony. The family will march this bull down the streets in the procession and use the cremation ceremony for the king as a way to honor or celebrate their own loved one (families can have a cremation ceremony separately for their loved one, but it is much more expensive). 

Balinese Cremation Ceremony

We drove with the Bell family to a restaurant near the middle of Ubud where the procession for the king would be coming eventually. The streets were absolutely packed with people, and after about 30 minutes we saw bull sculptures being carried down the street as people with drums walked before them and loud Balinese music played. These ceremonies are a time of celebration for the Balinese people, not mourning. Soon after, a hand-built cremation tower made for the king was carried down the streets. It was incredibly tall (probably around 40 feet) and very beautifully designed with many vibrant colors. It was carried into a courtyard and we watched as they carried the coffin over to a large bull sculpture (made of bamboo, paper, and styrofoam). They then took the king’s body (wrapped in white cloth) and transferred it into the bull to be cremated. Many people came forth with offerings to put into the bull with the body. We left before the bull was set on fire, but we came back several hours later and saw the family of the king collecting the ashes after the fire had extinguished. The next morning the ashes would be taken to the ocean to be spread. It was a beautiful ceremony and we were incredibly lucky to have been on Bali when it occurred!

Ubud is known as the cultural center of Bali, and there is an extensive amount of art galleries and beautiful architecture to see here. We heard it referred to as the “hippie” part of Bali several times, and the vast number of cozy cafes, yoga studios, meditation centers, clothing shops, and more do not make it difficult to understand why. There are an unlimited number of places to eat in all different price ranges: from local food to sushi to Italian. One of my favorite places that we ate while in Ubud was Pulu Mujung Warung. It is located near the center of Ubud, and restaurant goers must walk the 20 or so minutes through beautiful rice paddies to get to this little gem of a restaurant. It is located in a quiet and quite remote area; the view from the restaurant is amazing. The prices are reasonable and they serve mostly Indonesian style food. They grow most of their own organic vegetables in a garden just outside of the restaurant, so the salads here are excellent! You can pick out your own vegetables from the garden and they will prepare and serve them to you. In addition, if you want to take some vegetables from their garden home, they will sell them to you for a reasonable price (we got some Kale to bring home for soup later that night!). Delicious.

Ubud also has many great areas for shopping. There is a large open air market across the street from the only Starbucks in town (ask anyone and they will be able to direct you). They have all sorts of foods, clothing, arts, crafts, and jewelry items here for cheap prices (be prepared to bargain!). One of the women here told us that they start bargaining with customers at a high price because it is good luck to do so. If you purchase something, many shopkeepers will tap the bills you hand them against items in their shop (again, for good luck). It is typically fairly easy to find a price you are both happy with. Monkey Forest Road (conveniently right next to the open air market) also has an endless number of shops, particularly clothing and silver shops, although there are other types as well.

Also located on Monkey Forest Road is Monkey Forest (surprise!), a popular tourist attraction. It costs 20,000 rupiah (about $2.00) per person to get in and they have bananas for sale outside that you can buy to feed the monkeys. Inside, there are monkeys running around everywhere, and they are quite used to humans. We witnessed several incidents where a monkey would literally climb onto a person because they were holding a banana (so don’t stick your hands into your bag or do anything to make the monkeys think you have food if you don’t want this!). There are also a few temples inside, and the rainforest you walk through is absolutely beautiful. It’s certainly a fun thing to see if you have the opportunity. 

Handing a banana to my new friend.

Although we stayed in Ubud for the majority of our time in Bali, we also took day trips to Sanur and Kintamani. Sanur is a little beach town located in the Southern part of the island. It’s quiet and is a fun place to go kayaking for a few hours or stop for lunch. For our day trip to Kintamani, we signed up for a cycling tour through Bali Eco Cycling Tour. They picked us up around 8:30am, and we were in a group of about 10 other people. Our first stop was a Balinese coffee plantation where our hilarious guide gave us a tour and we sampled many delicious types of coffees and teas. Next, breakfast was provided for us at a restaurant overlooking an active volcano, Mt. Batur, and Lake Batur. Absolutely breathtaking! The cycling trip down the mountain began after this (don’t worry, it’s 96% down hill) and included several stops at a Balinese home, a rice plantation, a 500 year old banyon tree, etc. To end the tour, they serve you an incredibly good traditional Indonesian lunch buffet. For those who still have some energy left in them, they offer to drop you off at Monkey Forest and pay your admission fee. For those who are not interested in this part of the tour, they will conveniently drop you off back at your hotel. The tour lasted roughly 7 hours and cost us each 275,000 rupiah (roughly $25.00), which we bargained down from the listed price on the brochure of 360,000 each. We would definitely recommend this trip if you have the time!

Eating breakfast and enjoying the view of Lake Batur!

Bali was a very magical place for me, and I was continuously amazed by the beauty and calm aura of the island. One of the simplest and most magical moments occurred when Sarah and I were walking home from dinner one night and were amazed to see fireflies flickering over the rice paddies surrounding the house. Absolutely magical. It was also kite season (June and July) while we were in Bali, and if you look up into the sky during the afternoon you can literally see dozens upon dozens of kites flying. I once looked up and counted over 100 in the air! It’s a pretty amazing sight to see.

Rice paddies in Ubud, Bali

I was constantly amazed to find people in Bali always smiling at one another, even in the busy roads where people are continuously swerving in and out of lanes (one local laughed and told me that the center line in the road is “just for decoration”). It’s pretty easy to make friends with locals here, so don’t be afraid to smile or ask for help/directions if you need it. Bali is a breathtakingly beautiful island with an incredible culture and very friendly people; it’s definitely a must-see island if you are ever in Indonesia! 

Be sure to check out our general travel tips for Indonesia!

Overland Travel Lombok to Flores

Traveling overland, especially on a budget, is anything but convenient, but there’s no better way to get to know the country you’re traveling through than by taking public transportation. Our overland trip from Mataram (on Lombok) to Labuan Bajo (on Flores) was what you might call a learning experience (unless you wanted to call it a nightmare, but we’re trying to see the glass half full here). The trick is getting where you need to go for the best value, considering money, time, and overall travel experience. This was our goal when we decided to split up our trip into several days on Lombok using public transportation—save some money, see some sights, and relax here and there on the way. Well, it was a nice idea. Here’s what we learned and how you can avoid some of our blunders:

First of all, you should know we planned our trip using Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia On a Shoestring, the 15th edition (2010) as an aid. In general this is a great tool, but there is no way Lonely Planet could have prepared us for this leg of our trip. Many of the prices listed in the book for lodging and transportation in Lombok were way off; either the authors went during low season (we went in high season) or they were men (and we are not. But more on that later). 

We knew from the book and from asking locals that we needed to get to Labuhan Lombok on the east side of the island in order to get across Sumbawa to Flores. We wanted to split up the long trip by stopping somewhere else on Lombok for a night or two, and from what we read and saw on the map there were two decent options: Kuta in the south or Senaru in the north. Kuta is a small beach town, and since we had just been on the beach, we chose Senaru instead, a small town at the base of sacred Mt. Rinjani. From what I could tell it was a little easier to get to/from, and it sounded beautiful (1 out of 2 of those assessments was correct).

Mataram —> Senaru:

We started at the Mandalika bus terminal in Mataram (we originally got there from Gili Air), where we found a bus that went to Anyar. Lonely Planet told us it would cost 20,000 rupiah for one person, but we couldn’t get a price any lower than 40,000 rupiah each (Fail #1). From Anyar it is a short drive to Senaru. Lonely Planet said there would be bemos to take us this stretch, but in fact there are none (Fail #2). You’ll have to hire a car or motorbike to take you up the steep hill from Anyar. Our bus driver offered to take us the extra distance for 20,000 more rupiah, but in hindsight 20 might have been a bit much to pay for such a short distance.

Senaru:

Senaru is beautiful, if you have the time and money to do it right. Trekking Mount Rinjani is the main reason to visit here. A Rinjani trek will cost upwards of a hundred dollars for a few nights, meals and guide included, and can be arranged at your hotel. If you’re not planning on trekking we wouldn’t recommend making the journey to Senaru, unless you have several days and want somewhere quiet to chill out away from the crowds. Just make sure you’re going to spend enough time to make the ride there and away worth it. We only stayed a night, and though the quiet and the scenery were nice, it didn’t quite make the journey out worth it. We stayed at Pondok Indah for 100,000 rupiah/night (including breakfast and spotty wifi) and left the following morning for Labuhan Lombok.

Senaru—>Labuhan Lombok:

We should have known we’d have a long day when just getting from our hotel to the bus stop was a hassle. We paid an outrageous 15,000 each to drive the 5 minutes to the bus stop, after assuring everyone at our hotel that, no, we didn’t want a car to take us to Labuhan Lombok. Upon arriving at the bus stop, the driver of our car (apparently upon divine inspiration) suddenly announced that the bus wasn’t coming today until 1:00 (it was around 9 am at the time). Well, since we had been told the bus comes every hour, we took our chances anyway and he drove dejectedly back up the hill.

The public bus stop is just a random spot on the side of the road, and upon our arriving there we were surrounded by an innumerable and endless supply of men offering rides to Labuhan Lombok for the bargain price of an arm and a leg, each. We started out kindly averting the never-ending questions “Where are you going?” and “How much?” by asking what time the bus came. We got exactly four different answers. After a little chin-rubbing and consulting in Indonesian with the rest of the men, someone would tell us not until 3, 4, 1, or 2:00 and then offer us a ride for 400,000 rupiah. This lasted for about half an hour, us standing or squatting on the side of the road with our backpacks, and dozens of men gathered in a circle around us, conspiring in Indonesian and making offers in English. We refused the initial, insane offers of 3-400,000 rupiah ($40 USD for a 2 hour drive) and prayed they were lying about the bus not coming for 6 more hours. During this time I was thinking two things: “God, I wish I knew Indonesian,” and “I wish I knew karate.” 30 minutes later the bus arrived, and we pushed our way through the crowds of men consulting with the driver and bargained for 40,000 rupiah each to Labuhan Lombok (make sure you tell the driver you don’t want a ferry ticket; you can take care of that later).

Labuhan Lombok—>Bima:

When we arrived in Labuhan Lombok, just up the road from the ferry port, we were surrounded by another crowd of men making offers. Long story short, we bought a combined bus/ferry ticket to Bima on Sumbawa for 150,000 each (it included 1 free meal, which ended up being at 2 am. But hey, I’ll take free food anytime!). In hindsight this was too much to pay, especially considering our bus didn’t leave for another 6-7 hours. Try to get a lower price than this; the bus only takes you to Bima, where you’ll have to get another bus to Sape to catch the ferry.

Bima—>Sape:

This leg of the journey was probably the most frustrating part, even though the actual travel time from Bima to Sape is 2 1/2 hours. When we arrived in Bima we were immediately offered taxis and bemos to Sape, but we opted to take the public bus, which we were assured earlier would only be 20,000 rupiah each. Since our bus was late in leaving, we missed the public buses that leave from Bima in the morning in order to catch the 8am ferry in Sape to Labuan Bajo. The next bus wouldn’t leave for several hours, so we asked how much a bemo would be, and we were shocked when the driver told us 300,000 ($30 USD for a 2.5 hour drive!). Even by bargaining we could only get him down to 200,000, so we decided to wait for the bus. Later on we met an English man named David who was immediately offered 40,000 rupiah for a bemo to Sape. I know, we were confused too. But that’s for a later blog entry. All’s well that ends well, and we got to Sape eventually for 20,000 rupiah on the public bus.

Sape—>Labuan Bajo:

The first thing you need to know is that all the guide books will tell you there’s only one ferry a day from Sape to Labuan Bajo, and it leaves at 8 am. This isn’t necessarily true. When we arrived in Sape we assumed we’d have to stay the night (accommodation here is slim pickings!) since we missed the 8 am ferry. But we later learned (through the same annoyingly lucky English man, who spoke with a few locals and got the low-down) that another ferry was going to arrive at 4 pm. Initially all the staff at the port told us there would be no ferry, but when we pressed them about the 4 pm one they gave up the goods. A ferry did arrive at 4 pm, but it didn’t leave until after 11 pm. Some people who boarded with us had direct tickets from Mataram to Labuan Bajo, which they used to get on. We had no direct ticket, and the ticket office was closed, so Kim and I paid the man collecting tickets at the ferry the 46,000 rupiah ticket price, and he let us on (we’re not sure where that money actually went, but we weren’t too concerned). The ferry traveled overnight to Labuan Bajo, around a 7 hour journey, and we arrived there in the morning.

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None of this is to scare anyone away from overland travel. It can be confusing, frustrating, and overwhelming, but Kim and I learned a ton and were much more savvy because of it. We also gained some great memories we wouldn’t have gotten otherwise, like a group of old women and their vegetables overtaking our bus who had a complete fascination with Kim’s turquoise ring, and talked with each other about it at length in Indonesian. Or a man on our ferry to Labuan Bajo who used a combination of sign language and charades to either a) tell us about the komodo dragons or b) warn us about a very large, winged creature living somewhere on the boat who once bit a giant chunk out of someone’s side. Overland travel is where the memories are, but if you want an easier time traveling, here are your options:

1. Fly to Labuan Bajo airport from Lombok or Bali.
2. Book a direct ticket from Mataram to Bima or Labuan Bajo. You can also book a direct ticket from the Gilis to Labuan Bajo for 400,000 rupiah.
3. On the way back, it’s possible to book a direct ticket for 500,000 (during high season) from Labuan Bajo to Denpasar on Bali (we did this and it was much easier, though not as memorable).

Happy traveling!

Also, be sure to check out our general travel tips for Indonesia!

Prehistoric Island: Labuan Bajo and Rinca Island, Komodo National Park

I’m fairly sure it has been one of my nightmares to be wandering through an unfenced Jurassic Park with nothing but a man carrying a long, two-pronged stick to protect me. Yet I still found myself traveling for two straight days to get to Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores in Indonesia, a jumping-off point to do this very thing. Call me crazy, but you’d have to call 30,000 other people who visit Komodo National Park each year crazy as well.

There are currently only three islands where komodo dragons can be found in their natural habitat, and they are all part of Komodo National Park off the coast of Flores, Indonesia. These giant lizards, reaching up to ten feet and over 300 pounds in size, are an endangered species with only a few thousand remaining in the wild. Their size, speed, serrated teeth, and septic jaws are at once a cause for fear and a draw for thousands of tourists who come to see these prehistoric beasts lounging around on the islands of Komodo and Rinca each year.

Getting there: Kim and I traveled overland from Lombok to Flores, a trip that can be booked directly or split up into several days, like we did (read about our trip here). From Sape, the port in East Sumbawa, a ferry leaves every day at 8 am for Labuan Bajo, Flores. The guide books say the 8 am ferry is the only one, but this isn’t necessarily true. If you get to Sape after 8, wait around until 4 before you book a hotel room. We found out after arriving that a ferry came at 4 pm and left late that night for an overnight trip to Labuan Bajo. We were initially told that no ferry would arrive, but alas, it did, and we arrived in Labuan Bajo the next morning (the ferry ride is around 7 hours and cost 46,000 rupiah).

Labuan Bajo

Labuan Bajo was a great place to rest and recuperate after several days of traveling overland. We stayed at Matihara Inn, a decent hotel with wifi and free breakfast for 100,000 rp/night, and frequented The Corner, a quaint restaurant near the harbor with wifi and excellent club sandwiches and ice cream floats. From Labuan, diving trips and trips to Komodo and attractions farther north on the island can be arranged at a number of shops. We found the best deal for a Komodo trip on a street corner from a man trying to find extra people to fill spots on his boat.

If you want to see the dragons there are several options. One option is to buy a two day/one night or three day/two night tour, wherein you’ll stay in a hotel or on the deck of your boat and see Komodo, Rinca, and the surrounding islands (meals and snorkeling are included). Another option is to do a day trip to either Komodo or Rinca and stop for snorkeling on the way back. It all depends on what your goals are. If you want to see it all and do it all, you may want to opt for the longer tour. However, we’ve heard from several people that these tours may not be worth it. Our main concerns were seeing the dragons and getting our money’s worth (and besides, we had just traveled for several days and were exhausted!). So we opted for a day trip to Rinca Island.

Dragons at the Kitchen

If you visit Rinca you're are virtually guaranteed to see dragons (partly because they know where the kitchen is). Our trip was 200,000 (<$25 USD) each and included lunch and a snorkeling stop on the way back that was beautiful, and made for a wonderful and full day. (Make sure when negotiating a ticket price to insist that it include lunch and snorkeling gear. Gear isn’t expensive to rent, but it’s more convenient to have it provided for you.) We shared the boat with 3 lovely girls from the Chzek Republic; the more people on the boat, the lower you can get the ticket price, but many boats will limit you to 5 or 6 people.

Once at Rinca, we were charged a park admission fee (40,000 rp/person) and government taxes (50,000 rp/person). If you are only going to Rinca and not Komodo, tell them and you might get a break on the taxes. Since we were only visiting one of the islands we were charged 30,000 per person instead of 50. Just look really shocked when they tell you it’s 50 each, and say something like “Just for Rinca?”

Rinca's Stunning Scenery!

You’ll then get a choice for a short, medium, or long tour. We chose the medium and were happy we did. Much of the scenery is lost on the short tour, and we spoke with some friends who did the long tour and wished they hadn’t. Most of the wildlife will be seen in the first half, and it was hot. Many of the dragons we saw were in the first few minutes of the tour, lounging by the kitchen. We saw a few more out in the wild, including one that was preparing a nest to lay eggs in. You might be able to get pretty close to them, but listen to your guide’s advice on how close to get! They seemed pretty docile laying there and staring at us as we took pictures, but those suckers can run 11 mph, so we weren’t taking any chances.

A sobering reminder of the speed and skill of the dragons came at the end of the trip when we noticed a sign listing the number of komodo attacks in the park. One attack occurred on Rinca this year, but the victim (and a large number of previous victims) survived. In all the number was very small, but still made us feel like quite the badasses. This feeling alone, if it had not been a fun and breathtakingly beautiful trip, would have been worth the ticket price. A highly recommended adventure indeed!

Note: while in Labuan Bajo we also arranged for one night on Seraya Island, an hour from Flores. The price is reasonable (150/night) and includes transportation. We recommend it if you’re looking for simplicity, quiet, and a great night sky. It’s sort of like being on Gilligan’s island with 40 other people and a restaurant. However, if you don’t have several days to spend, the hour-long boat ride and mediocre food are not worth the trip! For a romantic getaway, Gili Meno may be a better option.

To learn more about the dragons: http://animals.nationalgeographic.com/animals/reptiles/komodo-dragon/

Also be sure to check out our general travel tips for Indonesia!

A City in Harmony: Mataram, Lombok, Indonesia

A Hindu Temple and a Mosque in Mataram

Mataram is is West Nusa Tenggara’s sprawling capital, situated on the Western side of the island of Lombok, Indonesia. Mataram is usually mentioned in travel books as the starting point for a journey across Lombok via Mandalika bus terminal. It is extremely spread out, making it less convenient for travelers to get around, thus prompting most tourists to forego the dusty metropolis for the amenity-laden beaches of Senggigi. But a few days in this city unveils cultural treasures well worth the stay and reveals perhaps the greatest achievement of the city: its religious harmony.

The Temples of Mataram

Pura Meru

The Sasak people of Lombok were under the control of the Balinese from the 17th century until the late 19th century when the Dutch intervened. The evidence of Bali’s rule still remains in many of Lombok’s religious heirlooms. Although Lombok is predominantly Muslim, Balinese Hindu temples are still scattered across the island. If one travels from Bali to Lombok they will see the structural similarities in the puras (temples), from the dragon guardian statues to the Candi Bentar, distinct split pillar entrances. We recommend seeing the Pura Meru Temple, the Mayura Water Palace, Pura Lingsar Temple, and the Bertais Market.

Pura Meru: This temple, the largest on Lombok, was just a short walk from our hotel. It was built in 1720 by Anak Agung, a Balinese Prince, in an attempt to unite Lombok. The main entrance opens out to the main road, but when Kim and I attempted to enter here a man informed us that admission was 50,000 rp each. In fact, the temple is by donation and there is no set price, so if someone tries to ask you for a certain amount, do not give it to them. We simply walked to the side road and went in the back way. Two older men directed us to the donation box, where we each deposited 10,000 rupiah and tied the sashes around our waists to enter the inner courtyard of the temple. The courtyard has a feeling of disuse, but the original structures are still breathtaking, and upon further inspection there are Hindu offerings still placed on the meru (shrines) each day.

Shrines at Mayura Water Palace

Mayura Water Palace: This palace was built in 1744, also by the Balinese, and was once part of the Balinese Kingdom’s royal court on Lombok. It is a few minutes’ walk from Pura Meru and, as pointed out to us by one of the workers at Mayura, sits alongside religious centers of varying faiths. A very short walk down the street will take you past Islamic, Hindu, Christian, and Buddhist sites of worship, all coexisting in a peaceful and respectful manner. The same man took us further down the road away from the main street, where we walked through several local communities to a small local handicraft market. On the way we passed both Hindu and Muslim communities separated only by sidewalks or streams. We stopped at one Hindu Temple and, looking over the fence into its courtyard, I could see a local Mosque just beyond it.

Entrance to Mayura Water Palace is also according to donation—don’t feel pressured to give more than you have, the money is simply for upkeep and renovation. Inside is a large artificial lake that locals sometimes fish in or lounge beside. Further in is a courtyard with four incredibly beautiful shrines and a very sweet old man who ardently encouraged us to take pictures (so we did).

Pura Lingsar: If you only visit one place in Mataram, make it Pura Lingsar! This complex, built in 1714, is the holiest place on Lombok and is currently a site of multi-denominational worship that unites the local Wektu Telu religion with Hindu, Buddhist, and Christian faiths. Upon arriving you will be approached by a guide to take you through the temple. Our guide, Gorbang, was very helpful in explaining the significance of Pura Lingsar’s structures and history. You’ll walk through courtyards and past shrines to the inner temple, where you will make a donation and be given a sash. (A note for the ladies: If you’re menstruating you won’t be allowed to enter the temple—and they will ask you.) Inside you’ll see a small pond where, according to legend, a great king once prayed for water during a drought and was granted such when he planted his staff in the ground. Throw some coins over your shoulder into the pond and make a wish! 

You’ll also see the sacred stones that represent wisdom and the outlet of an underground spring that is said to be a sort of fountain of youth with various healing powers. I drank some of the holy water and our guide said afterward that I now looked ten years old! (I feel great, but I’m dreading going through puberty again.) Another courtyard contains symbols of both the Islam and  Hindu religions, and nearby is an area where people of various faiths are able to come pray alongside each other according to their religious traditions. Gorbang said he thinks there is no better place in all of Lombok, and I can see why! The spiritual harmony of Mataram converges marvelously in this ornate and beautiful complex.

Bertais Market

Local goods at Bertais Market

Mataram’s biggest local market is a great place to get a more “local feel” after visiting the temples. Simply walking through row after row of baskets filled with colorful beans, spices, fruit, and dried fish is an experience worth the short bemo ride. But besides the colorful (and pungent) foods for sale, Bertais also has handicrafts for sale at far better prices than you’ll find in touristy areas. Look for the wooden Sasak masks, a favorite souvenir from Lombok!

Travel/accommodation: We arrived in Mataram after our 4 night stay in Gili Air, just off the coast of Lombok’s main island. From the Gilis we took a ferry to Bangsal Harbor (23,000 rp), and public buses as well as shuttle buses run from Bangsal into Mataram. (Note: for public buses, you’ll need to take a horse cart to the main road first. Shuttle bus prices are advertised as 75,000 rp. to Mataram, but I wouldn’t pay any more than 40,000.) When we arrived in Mataram a bemo took us to JL Subak 1 (near Mataram Mall) where we booked a room at Hotel Ayu Jaya, which has a fixed price of 70,000 rp. per room and a lovely female owner who offered to order us fried noodles one night for dinner. This area of Mataram is a great base from which to see the city, as it’s only a short walk or bemo ride to some of the more important religious sites, and you can easily see them all in two days (or 1 if you’re in a hurry). Right across the street from Ayu Jaya is a warung we ate at several times, where you can get great take-away nasi campur for only 10,000 rp (around 1 USD). There are not much in the way of restaurants in this area, so warungs are your best bet, or for breakfast I recommend stocking up the day before at the vendors who set up on the main road during the evening.

Enjoy Lombok! And be sure to check out our general travel tips for Indonesia!

Welcome to Paradise Island: Gili Air, Lombok, Indonesia

Gili Air

The three Gili Islands off the coast of Lombok have something to offer everyone. Gili Trawangan, the designated “party island,” offers a good time to all with beaches during the day and parties at night. Gili Meno, or “Mellow Meno,” is a quiet Robinson-Crusoe-type island that attracts mainly older visitors. Gili Air, many say, is a perfect balance between the shocking noise of Trawangan and the stunning silence of Meno.

Gili Air (“Gili” means small island, “Air” means water) is easily walkable (we made it all the way around in about 90 minutes), as are the other Gilis. And like the other two islands, there are no cars or motorbikes. Colorful horse carts, their decor comparable to what you might find on a carousel, will be waiting at the harbor to take you anywhere on the island. Here the noise of cars is replaced by a gentle tinkling that sounds like Santa’s sleigh, lending to the serenity of the island.

Kim and I were on Gili Air during Ramadan, so the island was slightly quieter than normal. Certain restaurants opened for dinner only after sundown, but food was still very accessible. We stayed in the village near the local Mosque, and at night the loudspeakers filled the air with readings from the Qur'an, a mix between song and chant that is mesmerizing and quite beautiful. A short walk near the Mosque at night gave us a snapshot view of the life, religious devotion, and many adorable children of the village.

Aside from the customary walk around the island, laying on the beach is pretty much the main activity for tourists on Gili Air. Kim and I spent a lot of our time laying on the beach in front of tourist town, interrupted only by nice women selling bracelets and sarongs and an old man who will cut a pineapple into a giant lollipop for you for 15,000 rupiah. There’s also some decent snorkeling (be prepared to see a freaky drop-off not far from the shore!), numerous diving opportunities, and tons of good food. The restaurants on the beach sell good Indonesian, Western, and Italian food, but the warungs are the places to go if you want good, cheap, local food. Kim and I ate breakfast every morning at Warung Kampung, just down the road from Eazy Gili Homestay in the village. The banana pancakes were so good, Kim began to question whether they contained MSG. ;)

It’s also easy to make friends on Gili Air. Kim and I made friends with locals and tourists alike simply by returning to certain restaurants or accepting an invitation to sit and talk on the beach (shout out to our newlywed friends Frank and Hannah!). If you have questions, there’s no one better to ask than your waiter or bartender, and other travelers will have tons of great stories and advice for you! Karang divers also have a very helpful bulletin board to the left of the harbor that gives tourists tips and advice on what to do/see on Gili Air. But for those looking to relax and enjoy the beauty of the island, you only need one question: “Which way is the beach?”

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From Padang Bai on Bali, one can take the slow ferry for 30,000 rp. to Lombok. If you land in Lembar, take a shuttle bus or bemo to Bangsal, and another ferry to Gili Air from Bangsal that takes only about 20 minutes. Another option is a fast boat directly to the Gilis, which will cost around 500,000 rp. Kim and I got a killer deal on a fast boat from our host in Bali, who knew a local ticket dealer well (moral of the story: knowing locals is the best!). If you leave Gili Air for Bangsal, be sure to catch the 8am ferry for 8,000 rp, as the later ferries cost more. Island hopping tickets are around 23,000 rp. Fair warning: high season on Gili Air is July/August, and we heard stories of people having to sleep on the beach because all the rooms were booked. So get that room quick or bring an extra blanket! A good price for a room is at or under 150,000 rp during high season.

Also check out our general travel tips for Indonesia!

The Singapore Layover

A long layover can be a drag if you don’t know how to fill your time, but in the right city a layover can be like a fun, relatively cheap day trip to another country. If you happen to find yourself in Singapore (which is likely if you’re flying somewhere in Southeast Asia), then you’re in luck! There are dozens of ways to fill your time that won’t drain your energy or your pocketbook. It’s an easy city to see in just a day, and there are numerous options for a small or large budget. Here’s what Kim and I did in Singapore in just around 8 hours in what to do on a Singapore layover:

Getting There

If your baggage is being transferred directly to your next flight, then head straight for immigration. If you have to pick up baggage to be checked at another airline, grab your bags and head for the “Left Baggage” area (there will be signs directing you). Kim and I got into Singapore at night, so instead of picking up our bags right away, we let them go to the lost and found area (a little risky, but worth a good night’s sleep), and brought them to the left baggage counter in the morning. It cost around 8 Singapore dollars (<7 USD) to check our large bags (over 10kg) for the day. Then grab a map of the city, exchange some money, and head through immigration.

Once you’re through immigration (which is a breeze), head for the metro station and buy a ticket for Raffles Place. The ticket cost us $2.10 each way, plus a 1 dollar deposit that is refundable later. At Raffles Place you’ll emerge from the metro right into the beautiful, bustling metropolis of downtown Singapore. At first sight it seems like everyone in Singapore is some sort of business executive—you’ll see more well-dressed people than you ever have in your life. But just a short walk will bring you into contact with some of the more diverse aspects of Singapore’s culture.

Cheap Eats: Lau Pa Sat Festival Market

Good food at Lau Pa Sat Market!

 Singapore has three famous food courts throughout the city, Lau Pa Sat being the most famous. This fabulous market is just a few minutes’ walk from the metro station and is marked on the map. Anyone passing by will be able to point you in the right direction. Upon entering Lau Pa Sat, you might be overwhelmed by the number of food vendors. Inside, it looks similar to Grand Central Market in Los Angeles. Kim got some delicious noodles from Lily’s Wok, and I had Fishball Noodle’s namesake dish (very good, and both $3-4). Another must in Lau Pa Sat is their juice bar, where you can get fresh fruit juice for $3 with ice, and there are a million choices. Kim and I stopped back in Lau Pa Sat later on for some starfruit and dragonfruit juice to drink on the way to Marina Bay. We also grabbed some delicious red bean buns for 80 cents.

Chinatown

There’s a lot to see within walking distance from Lau Pa Sat. If you’re craving caffeine there’s a Starbucks down the road, which I noticed had both a green tea frap with red beans and a hojicha and tea jelly frap. We didn’t stop, but continued on to Chinatown, where there is another large food court. Here I got some real Singapore coffee, made with sweetened condensed milk instead of cream and sugar. When Kim asked if the coffee was from Singapore, the owner of the little shop raised his voice above the radio and said, “The music is from the U.K., but the coffee is local!”

Right around the market there’s a fair bit of history to read about, so make sure to read any signs you see. A must-see is the Thian Hock Keng Temple, which is marked on the map. There’s some beautiful photo ops around the outside of the temple, but make sure not to take any pictures inside (we got scolded for doing just that!).

Marina Bay

From Chinatown you can walk fairly easily to Marina Bay, where you’ll see the famous Marina Bay Sands building (the one with the huge boat on top). It looks far on the map, but keep in mind that Singapore is actually very small—it’s not as far as it looks! Just make sure to bring water, as it will probably be hot and we had a difficult time finding water fountains near the Marina.

Marina Sands Hotel

On the way, take time to admire some of the art installations you’ll see along the marina, as well as the beautiful Singapore skyline. When you get to Marina Bay Sands there’s several ways to spend your time. Right in front of the Sands hotel is a huge mall as well as the ArtScience Museum, a beautiful piece of architecture with some interesting rotating exhibits (we didn’t pay the admission fee to enter, but when we were there they had an Andy Warhol exhibit and a Harry Potter exhibit). You can also catch the river cruise at the Marina for around $20.

The real attraction, however, is the Sands building itself. We attempted to get to the top of the hotel without paying, but no dice. Security guards are posted at every elevator and request to see a room key before they’ll let you go up. If you’re gutsy enough to try to pass as a part of a group, go for it! We had no such luck, however, and the only other way to see the view is to buy a ticket for the Sands Skypark for around $20. We ended up enjoying the view from the ground floor while we ate our red bean buns—still very much worth the walk!

Changi Airport

For those less inclined to walking or those with less time, there are truly worse places to be stuck than Changi Airport. With six different gardens (including a butterfly garden), a free movie theater, a swimming pool, and lots of rest areas to get some shuteye, keeping busy for a short or long layover should be not only easy, but fun! Happy traveling!

*For those in Singapore during the evening, check out the Night Safari, a popular tourist attraction.