Wednesday, March 27, 2013

Money Saving Tips for the Budget Backpacker


One of our biggest concerns when planning this trip, especially as recent college graduates, was finances. After carefully planning and budgeting (see our expense reports for details), all that was left to do was to use our money wisely. At first we went through a lot of trial and error as we got the feel for traveling on our own in Southeast Asia, and sometimes we spent more than we should have. But after months of packing up our things every few days and moving to a new city, we’ve picked up on dozens of small, easy ways to save on day to day expenses. In our city by city blog posts, our goal is to help other budget travelers save as much money as possible in each destination while still enjoying their new surroundings. But there are some general tips that will save Asia-bound budget travelers money no matter where they are. Here’s what we’ve learned so far in simple bullet-point form:

  • Stick together: The most important way traveling in groups or in a pair will save you money is on hotel rooms. For solo travelers, the price of a bed in a dorm may seem like a steal, but often the cost of a double room split between two people is a much better value. For example, one bed may be $5 but a double room with a fan is $8, or $4 each. Traveling together also saves money on transportation by splitting the cost of taxis or tuk-tuks, and can even save you money on rentals or in souvenir shops. One of our favorite lines is, “If we buy two (or three, or four), can we get a discount?” It works more often than you’d think.
  • Stay longer: Another great way to get a hotel discount is by staying longer. We’ve gotten discounts pretty regularly by telling the staff we’ll be staying for a while. The magic number is at least four nights. Sticking to one area has the added benefit of giving you time to find the cheapest and best places to eat. Staying longer in one place also has benefits besides saving money, like the ability to make friends, see more of one area, and build a relationship with a certain town or city.
  • Booking online: yes or no?: Booking online is sometimes necessary and often worth it. If you’re going to a certain city during a big festival or holiday booking online is a must to avoid the last pick of hotels. It’s also useful if you’re arriving late at night. In some places there are great deals online as well. We booked a great hostel in Siem Reap for $1 a night online. However, this is not always the case. Sometimes the cheapest hotels aren’t listed online, and useful websites like Hostelworld or Hostelbookers charge per person, which often ends up being more expensive. Finding a hotel upon arrival is time consuming but allows for bargaining and the chance to see the room beforehand. In other words, if there isn’t a worthwhile deal online and it’s not a peak travel time, booking in person is always the wiser choice.
  • Become a regular: Being a regular is the best, because it’s a sure way to put a smile on a small-business owner’s face. But it can also save money in unexpected ways. Every now and then we got freebies from our favorite places, like free pineapple from our favorite restaurant in Siem Reap, or free bananas and shakes from our go-to sandwich ladies in Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang. Yay for free stuff!
  • Steer clear of tourist restaurants: Although great every now and then for comfort food, tourist restaurants usually overcharge for local specialties. The best way to save money and get a real taste for local food is by eating in local eateries or opting for street food.
  • Walk everywhere! Transportation costs like taxi and tuk tuk fares may seem cheap at first compared to Western prices, but it adds up quickly. We walked so much, I broke clean through two pairs of sandals. Walking is a great way to get to know a city, and the best part is, it’s free!
  • Rent bikes: When a sight is too far to walk, bike rental is a great alternative. This is especially true for attractions that lay outside the city. A 10 km tuk-tuk ride may be spendy, but bike rental is around 1 or 2 dollars a day and you’ll see much more on a bike than you will out the window of a taxi.
  • Take local transportation: Tourist attractions are always more expensive than just the entrance fee if you’re planning on taking taxis or other expensive forms of transport like tourist buses or tuk tuks. In most large cities, local transportation is easy to use with the right information, and is always a fraction of the price. Ask local friends, your hotel staff, or the waiter at your favorite restaurant what bus to catch to get you from A to B, and have a map or a pen and paper handy to find out where to catch it. When traveling long distances, always check to see if there are local buses you can take instead of tourist buses. Make sure you research the most affordable form of transportation available beforehand (i.e. is the train or the bus cheaper?) and see if you can buy bus tickets at the bus station instead of through an agent (it’s usually cheaper that way).
  • Filter your own water: Filtering your own water on a long trip is a good idea for reasons other than the money you’ll save; I consider a water filter an absolute essential for a backpacker in Asia simply because of the impact buying bottles of water has on the environment (especially in a place with no recycling facilities like much of Asia). Filtering water will also give you more of an idea of what it’s like not having easy access to clean water, a state much of the world’s population still lives in. But if you need more convincing, filtering water can save you a ton of money! We used my Katadyn microfilter to pump our own water on our trip. This filter can purify up to 200 gallons of water with one cartridge, depending on water quality. Based on the length of our trip (taking into account time spent with friends when we didn’t have to pump water) and the fact that we pumped approximately a gallon of water each day for the two of us, I estimated we pumped around 177 gallons of water with our filter, or 22,656 ounces. That’s equal to around 686 1 liter bottles of water (that would no doubt be in a landfill or a river by now). Priced anywhere from 50 to 75 cents per bottle, we saved between $343 and $514 over seven months by filtering our own water. No brainer? I think so.
  • Hand wash your laundry: For short trips, having your clothes laundered is actually pretty affordable. But for a long trip like ours, it adds up. Pick up some cheap powdered laundry detergent at your local market before you leave, and transfer it into a heavy duty gallon sized Ziploc. Hand washing clothes in the bathroom sink may seem like a hassle at first, but I grew to like it. It made me feel more connected to my clothes. And I did seven months of laundry for only a few dollars!
  • Get food to go: if you know you’ll be spending lunch at a busy tourist attraction, avoid the marked up prices and get food to go from a local establishment beforehand. Lunch stops on long bus rides are sometimes expensive as well, so this is also a good idea when traveling overland.
  • Join rewards programs: Without frequent flyer programs, our trip may never have happened at all. If you use a credit card, make sure it’s a rewards credit card like the AAdvantage card from Citi or Chase's United Explorer card (both of which give you bonus miles just for signing up!). However, please only do this if you plan to be responsible with the credit card. For long trips, credit cards are not a responsible method of payment, outside of emergencies. Joining other rewards programs that have no membership fee is also a good idea, like hotel rewards programs. At the very least, make sure you’re enrolled in frequent flyer programs for the airlines you use so you can accumulate mileage for your next trip.
  • Join Couchsurfing.org: Couchsurfing is not only an incredibly rewarding experience on a personal level, it can save you money in several ways. The most obvious way is by saving you money on a hotel room. While couchsurfing should not be abused as simply a free hotel service, it is nice not having to pay for a room. Other ways CS can save you money: free meals (sometimes, depending on the host), tips on where to find the best deals on food and travel, knowledge about the local transportation system, and unbiased advice from a friend on the ins and outs of their city.
  • Ask the locals: When you don’t have a Couchsurfing host to rely on, go out of your way to ask other local friends for advice. Be sure to ask someone unbiased. The waiter at your favorite restaurant will give you better advice on tourist attractions and bus tickets than a local trekking guide or even your hotel staff (who usually have package deals to sell you). Ask someone at the local market where the best, cheapest places to eat are. Most of the time you’ll find complete strangers more than willing to help out!

Of course, common sense and good research are always your first resources when it comes to saving money. Never take the first deal you come across, be it flights, hotels, or souvenirs, and don’t be afraid to ask a lot of questions. An informed traveler is a happy traveler! And now you know. For more questions on how to save money, please refer to our expense reports or send us an email or comment and we’ll be happy to answer!

Happy saving!

Monday, February 18, 2013

Taking it Easy in Charming Hoi An, Vietnam

The charming little French-inspired town of Hoi An, Vietnam is the perfect place to relax and take in the atmosphere in the middle of your trip to Vietnam. If you’ve just come from bustling Ho Chi Minh City or have been whisking off to waterfalls and villages on the back of a motorbike in Dalat, Hoi An’s relaxed vibe, pretty stucco buildings, and charming lantern-lit streets are the perfect setting to take in the simple beauty of central Vietnam.

Hoi An's streets are especially charming at night.
That said, Hoi An is not the place for those looking for excitement or adventure. Aside from the endless opportunities for shopping (Hoi An is famous for its clothing, both custom and ready-made) there are basically three attractions: Hoi An Ancient Town, My Son Ruins, and Cua Dai Beach.

Food, Travel, and Accommodation:

We took the bus from Nha Trang to Hoi An, an 8 hour ride that cost $11. When we arrived at the bus stop the customary taxi drivers were there to take us to our hotels, but we opted to walk instead. Hoi An is a pretty walkable city, and the center ended up not being too far from the bus stop. We stayed at Hop Yen Hotel on the outskirts of the city center, a great location. Hop Yen has dorms for $5, but we bargained for a double room with a detached bathroom for $6 a night. It was a great bargain for a room with free wifi, but the added price was having to climb five flights of stairs to get there! Hop Yen also has a pretty decent-priced restaurant downstairs, though we didn’t eat there. One of our favorite places was Des Amis Cafe in the city center for their fantastic and very filling pancakes, lovely French music, and great coffee! We also frequented a great noodle soup street stand for dinner located near Mermaid restaurant.

Hoi An Ancient Town:

The river near Old Town
Hoi An’s Ancient Town (or Old Town) is a curious attraction, as admission works on a coupon system. At the various ticket booths around the town’s center, tickets are sold for 90,000 dong ($4.50) and will gain you admission to all of Ancient Town’s old streets and five attractions: one of the four museums, one of the four “old houses,” one of three assembly halls, the handicraft shop and a traditional show, and either the Japanese covered bridge or Quan Cong temple. Kim and I decided to forego tickets to Ancient Town, as we were enjoying the rest of town just fine and weren’t sure if the admission price was worth it for us. To decide if it’s worth it for you, check out this feature on Travelfish; the prices are a little outdated, but it will help you decide which attractions to hit, and which ones to miss.

My Son Ruins:

At the My Son Ruins
The My Son Ruins 55 km outside Hoi An are remains of the ancient Cham Kingdom and some of the most important ruins in Vietnam. While the ruins are an important historical and cultural sight, when seen in terms of value, the ruins take on a different significance for budget travelers. 

Tours to the ruins run from $5-$7 depending on which you choose. $5 will get you a bus there and back with an English speaking guide. $7 will get you a bus there and a boat back with an English speaking guide, free lunch, and a stop at Cam Kim Island to see a local handicraft village. At first glance, the $7 tour seems like a great value. We booked this tour and found ourselves on the way back from the ruins sitting on an extremely loud, water-polluting boat, eating a tiny rice and vegetable lunch (we ate a second lunch upon our return to Hoi An), and our stop at the handicraft village was only a ten-minute stop at a single store that sells wood carvings. For those who really want to see the ruins, book the $5 tour and get back in time to eat a real lunch and take a ferry to Cam Kim later on your own.

That being said, there are some who won’t want to do the tour at all. The ruins themselves aren’t very impressive, especially since many of them were destroyed by U.S. bombs during the Vietnam war. Our tour consisted of our very bored tour guide leading us through one of the major sites, explaining a few historical facts, and leaving us to see two other sites on our own. The tour itself lasted about half an hour. My favorite parts of the whole thing were understanding a bit more about the destruction the Vietnam war caused to the landscape and hearing our guide humorously explain the yoni and linga symbols placed throughout the ruins. So, is it worth it? For budget travelers who have already seen ruins such as those in Siem Reap or Ayutthaya, no. We certainly weren’t very impressed. But for those who have a little more time and money to spend, or who are especially interested in the cultural and historical significance of the ruins, it’s not a bad way to spend a day.

Cua Dai Beach and Other Ways to Spend Your Time:

For those who forfeited a stop in Nha Trang, the tourist beach capital of Vietnam, Hoi An is your chance to make up for it with a little sun-soaking. Cua Dai Beach is easily accessible by bike, and bike rental is only around $1 for a day’s use. Kim and I opted not to make the trek, but reviews of the beach are generally positive and we met one fellow traveler who said it was worth half a day and the short ride/walk out of town. Another idea is to take a romantic sunset river tour with your significant other, or shop ‘til you drop at the dozens of clothing shops lining Hoi An’s streets. By far our favorite activity in this city was simply sitting back at our favorite cafe and enjoying the quiet, pleasant atmosphere of Hoi An.



Happy traveling!

Friday, January 25, 2013

Da Lat: A City of Love

Da Lat (or Dalat) is the capital of the Lam Dong province in Vietnam and has a population of a little over 200,000 people. It is located in the Central Highlands of Vietnam, and with its elevation of 4,900 ft (1,500 m) its weather is significantly cooler than most other parts of tropical Vietnam. It is a popular tourist destination, particularly among the Vietnamese themselves. A Vietnamese friend once told me that Da Lat is “a city of love,” and with its mist covered mountains, French colonial architecture, and plethora of cozy cafes, it is not difficult to understand why. 

What to See

Da Lat Cathedral
At the center of Da Lat is the beautiful Xuan Huong Lake. Walking along the lake gives you stunning views of Da Lat and its surrounding areas. There are a few restaurants along the lake if you want a relaxing place to sit and enjoy a meal. For the more active, swam-shaped boats can be rented and taken out on Xuan Huong Lake, although Sarah and I chose to skip this.

While roaming around Da Lat’s city centre, you are unlikely to miss the high-rising Da Lat Cathedral. It is known locally as “Cock Church” in honor of the man-made rooster standing at the very tip of the church on the beautiful bell tower. The priest and staff are very friendly and welcoming. There are numerous Mass services held here throughout the week, and we attended one of the 5:00 pm services while in Da Lat. The inside of the church is beautiful, and although the services are all held in Vietnamese, it is a beautiful and interesting event to experience.

If you are interested in architecture or are a fan of Walt Disney, check out Hang Nga Guesthouse, popularly known among locals and tourists as the “Crazy House.” Vietnamese architect Dang Viet Nga is the creator of this beautiful piece of art. Many people compare the design of this building to artists such as Walt Disney and Salvador Dali. This magical building incorporates things such as caves, giant spider webs, stairs leading to the sky, bridges, mushrooms, giant animal sculptures, and trees in its beautiful and incredibly complex design. For 35,000 VND you can explore the Crazy House, and if you are willing to pay the price you can even stay a night or two in one of the spectacular rooms scattered around the building. This is a fun  and unique place and, at minimum, will produce many humorous pictures!

Crazy House
Easy Riders

If you visit Da Lat, you will undoubtably run into many Easy Riders enthusiastically offering you tours to pretty much anywhere in or around Da Lat. Easy Riders is a group of local tour guides who provide tours of various cities in Vietnam via the backs of their motorcycles. It is a way to travel “off the beaten track” and see the beautiful views Vietnam offers firsthand. Da Lat is the birth place of Easy Riders, and you cannot walk more than a few minutes without running into one. They offer tours through the Central Highlands, the Mekong Delta, Ho Chi Minh Trails, and more. They can even take you to the next city you are heading to if you want to make it into a two or three day excursion. They also do shorter and simpler day trips to nearby waterfalls or villages. Their prices are usually pretty reasonable, and they can be bargained with to reach a happy medium. If you need more convincing, you will more than likely be presented with a binder full of pictures from past tours and notes from previous clients saying how wonderful their experience was. In the end, Sarah and I decided not to do one of these tours, but it could be a fun way to spend a day or two if you have the extra time and money!

Where to Eat

In the city centre of Da Lat
There is no shortage of places to dine in Da Lat. Many cute French style restaurants line the streets, most complete with free pots of tea and soothing European music playing in the background. There are numerous bakeries scattered around Da Lat, and most pastries they sell are surprisingly good. Sarah and I both developed an addiction to the miniature loaves of banana bread sold at several bakeries around town (for remarkably cheap prices!). One budget restaurant that we particularly loved, but unfortunately only discovered during our last couple of days in Da Lat, is Peace Cafe. Peace Cafe, not to be confused with the nearby Peace Restaurant, is located at 64 Truong Cong Dinh and occupies the bottom floor of a family run hotel. There is a book exchange here, and the menu is full of both Vietnamese and Western dishes for cheap prices. I particularly loved the pancakes (which, unlike the crepe-like things misleadingly called pancakes at most eateries in Asia, could legitimately classify as a pancake). Definitely stop in here if you are looking for cheap, tasty, and filling food!

There are also several unique foods produced and sold in Da Lat. One of my favorites was the artichoke tea sold at many tea shops throughout Da Lat. It tastes unusual but good! It’s a fun thing to try and could be a unique thing to bring home to family or friends. Another popular thing produced in Da Lat is fruit preserves. Some of the most popular types include strawberry preserves and raspberry preserves. They look delicious and can be incorporated into many different recipes if you have room in your bag and aren’t traveling for much longer! 

View of Da Lat from "Crazy House"
These are just a few of the highlights of Da Lat and the many possibilities it offers its visitors. The overall feel of the city is very laid back and quaint. With its chilly weather and French architecture, it gives off a very strong European vibe. At one point, I glanced down one of the streets and suddenly felt as if I was looking down a strikingly similar road I had once walked down in Edinburgh, Scotland. Spending just a few days in Da Lat made me feel incredibly nostalgic of my time in Europe and reminded me of how much I love and miss it there (and convinced me that a trip back is needed in the very near future!). Needless to say, if you’d like to see some of the beautiful mountains in Vietnam and get a little break from the hectic and bustling lifestyle of Ho Chi Minh City, Da Lat may be the perfect option for you!