General Travel Tips: Cambodia

Here’s your one-stop-shopping, bullet point style rundown on Cambodia travel!

• Watch out for mystery fees at the Poipet border crossing. Walk in with exact change for the visa fee ($20), preferably in US dollars, and 2 passport sized photos for your visa application. Have extra USD on you for a bus ticket at the Poipet bus station, as there are no ATMs and a poor exchange rate.
• US dollars are widely accepted in Cambodia as well as Cambodian riel, and ATMs dispense USD. It’s a good idea to have some riel on you at all times, but you won’t lose money if you pay with US currency.
• Exchange money at local exchange stands instead of banks for a better rate.
• Bike rental is often the cheapest and most rewarding form of transportation in Cambodia. Most bikes cost only one dollar a day and it’s a great way to see the country’s beautiful scenery.
• Don’t leave Cambodia without visiting some of the historical sites related to the infamous Khmer Rouge Regime, an important part of Cambodia’s history that happened very recently. Phnom Penh is a great place to do this.
• At some historical sites (i.e. the Killing Caves outside Battambang), cute little kids will offer to show you around, or naturally assume the position of tour guide. If you accept their services, be prepared to give each of them (even their friends tagging along) one dollar. They may be cute, but keep in mind the impact encouraging extortion in little kids might have on their future.
• LGBTQ Travelers: Cambodians are generally accepting of homosexuality, but keep in mind that public displays of affection (heterosexual or homosexual) are a cultural no-no!
• Before you consider signing up for a tour of an orphanage, please read this article on why orphanages are not tourist attractions.
• You may encounter street children in some of Cambodia’s cities. Please do not give them money, as this does not help kids get off the street, and often the money goes directly to a handler or a pimp instead of necessities for the child.
• Always bargain, but make sure you do it with a smile! You’ll do much better that way.
• If you are traveling to Vietnam from Cambodia, get your visa at a travel agent in Phnom Penh instead of the embassy—it’s cheaper!
• Most of the water is brackish, so unless you have your own filter, expect to buy bottled water. Another eco-friendly option is to bring your own reusable water bottle and have it filled at restaurants or convenience stores that offer to fill water bottles.
• As always, keep your valuables on you at all times while traveling! Don’t leave cameras/laptops/cash/passports in luggage that is stowed underneath the bus or in an overhead compartment. Keep it right on your person to prevent it from being stolen.
• Watch that handbag! In Phnom Penh there are occasionally “drive-by muggings,” men on motorbikes who ride by and snatch shoulder bags from people. One incident tragically ended in a woman being pulled into traffic and killed. Keep your bags secure, or at least away from traffic!
• What to buy in Cambodia: Paintings of Angkor or watercolors of floating villages and scenes from rural life; fair trade handicrafts; kramas (multi-purpose scarves worn throughout Cambodia); Angkor t-shirts.

The Many Flavors of Phnom Penh: What to do in Cambodia's Capital

Phnom Penh, while not a particularly large city, holds enough sights and activities to keep any traveler busy for a few days or a week. Cambodia’s capital is a good place for shopping and chilling out eating happy pizzas by the riverside, but most importantly it is the best place to learn about the Khmer Rouge Regime and the tragic events that took place in Cambodia from 1975-1979. For this reason alone it is an essential stop on your tour of Cambodia!

We arrived in Phnom Penh on a bus from Siem Reap, a 5 hour ride costing $6. We couchsurfed during our stay at a home just Southwest of the tourist center, around the corner from Tuol Sleng Prison Museum, but most travelers to Phnom Penh stay by the riverside. A tuk-tuk to Riverside from the main bus station should be no more than $2. Riverside is charming and filled with cafes and restaurants, but be sure to move a bit inland to find cheap food. Street food vendors also turn up during the evenings to save you a few bucks.

What to do in Phnom Penh:

Shopping: There are two large markets in Phnom Penh, Psar Thmei (central market) and the Russian Market. Psar Thmei is well-known by locals for being overpriced, so any deals to be had are at the Russian Market. Don’t let this stop you from bargaining, however. As a tourist you’ll still be overcharged, but you’ll get a better deal than at the central market. Psar Thmei carries more clothing, knock off designer items, and jewelry, and the Russian Market is more plentiful in local art. Both markets carry essentially the same handicrafts you’ll find anywhere in Cambodia: wood products, handmade puppets, and ceramics to name a few. Both markets also carry electronics, most notably some knock-off Beats By Dre headphones for under $40. We met an expat at the Russian Market who’s been buying them for his grandkids for years and swears by their reliability, but we’ve also heard of people only getting a few weeks of use from them before they fell apart. Be sure to open the box and try the headphones out on your iPod before you buy them. Make sure the cord is thick and sturdy looking-- some knock-offs are visibly better quality than others. It also doesn’t hurt to ask if you can get your money back if the headphones stop working in a few days. You can also get local food and yummy smoothies at both markets (seriously, try the smoothies!), including fried crickets and tarantulas at Psar Thmei! Kim and I tried a bit of both and decided they taste similar to barbecue shrimp. If markets aren’t your scene there are some decent fair trade shops and thrift stores just south of Riverside on Street 240, near a candy store called Chocolate.

Kim chowing down on a fried tarantula we bought outside Psar Thmei

Cultural/Historical Sites: Three easy attractions of historical/political importance are the Royal Palace, Independence Monument, and the National Museum. Independence Monument is ten minutes walk from Riverside, and though it won’t take up much time it’s an impressive sight on the way to or from Tuol Sleng Museum (more on that later). The Royal Palace and the National Museum are both very close to riverside, and both have entry fees. Kim and I decided the $6.50 entrance fee at the Royal Palace wasn’t worth it, as visitors are only allowed to see certain parts of the grounds (and not even the most impressive parts). However, most reviews of the palace are positive. If you have the time and money it will be worth it. But if you’re on a tight budget and have already toured some of the main temple attractions in Thailand, don’t feel bad skipping it. The National Museum (admission $3) is a worthy visit for those interested in Cambodian sculpture, religious history, or ancient customs. The museum mainly displays sculptures, many of them recovered from the temples at Angkor, along with artifacts from archaeological excavations and burial sites.

Outside the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh

Learning About the Khmer Rouge Regime: Phnom Penh is one of the best places in Cambodia to learn about the infamous Khmer Rouge Regime, which was responsible for the deaths of around 1/4 of Cambodia’s population from 1975-1979. While traveling in Cambodia, encounters with survivors of this brutal regime are guaranteed, as anyone in their late 30s or above was around when Cambodia’s cities (including PP) were emptied and thousands of citizens were sent to forced labor camps or secret prisons. Today, Cambodia and its people seem to be rising from the ashes of this recent tragedy, and many Cambodians have dedicated themselves to educating locals and foreigners alike of the genocide they endured in order to prevent similar atrocities in the future. For travelers to Cambodia, it’s incredibly important to understand this period of time, not only to understand Cambodia’s history but also to appreciate the astounding gentleness and optimism of the local people. The most infamous of the Khmer Rouge secret prisons was called S-21, and is now the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh. Choeung Ek, the most infamous Cambodian killing field is also just outside of Phnom Penh, and all but a few of the 20,000 prisoners of S-21 were executed there.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a high-school-turned-secret-prison

Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek can be visited in one day, but we split it into two days because each site is an overload of both information and heartbreak. At Tuol Sleng we roamed through the hallways of what used to be a high school, it’s rooms and corridors now converted into rows of individual cells, and saw pictures of the thousands of prisoners once held there. At Choeung Ek we roamed through the quiet, grass covered area where thousands of bones were found buried after the Khmer Rouge fell out of power. Many of those bones are on display in a beautiful memorial building in the middle of the field. Admission for Tuol Sleng is $2, and is extra for a tour guide. Choeung Ek has lately been privatized, which troubles many as it seems profit is being made on the back of a tragedy. This may be so, but the grounds are very well kept by the staff, and the $5 admission fee includes an excellent and informative audio tour. I learned more at Choeung Ek about the Khmer Rouge regime than anywhere else. We hired a tuk-tuk to take us the 20 minute drive to Cheong Ek for $11. I wouldn’t advise paying any more than $12.

Cheong Ek Memorial

Suggested Itinerary for Phnom Penh: 

How much time you spend in Phnom Penh is up to how busy you want to stay. Here’s a suggested itinerary if you only have two full days at your disposal:

Day 1: Have a city map handy, which you’ll be able to get from most hotels. Start off by taking a tuk-tuk to the Tuol Sleng Prison Museum. Budget at least two hours here to take everything in (including a short video shown twice a day, once at 10 am). The walk from Tuol Sleng back to Riverside is fairly straightforward and you can take in some sights on the way. First, stop off for lunch at the excellent Chinese Noodle Restaurant on Monivong Blvd, not far from the museum. Kim and I ate lunch here several times and it was our favorite meal in Phnom Penh! The noodles are excellent, as are the dumplings, and you get to watch them make the noodles right outside! Continue walking toward Riverside and pause at Independence Monument for some photo ops. Finally, hit up the Royal Palace or the National Museum for an hour or so to end your day.

Noodles from the Chinese Noodle House- yum!!

Day 2: Start your day by getting a tuk-tuk to Cheong Ek Killing Field, a 20-minute drive. Budget several hours for this, as you’ll want to take your time. After finishing up here, get back to Riverside for the happy hour at Tutti Frutti (1-3pm). Kim and I got big bowls of frozen yogurt after our tour of Cheong Ek to cheer us up, because ice cream fixes everything! For something to do at night, catch a movie at one of the Flicks Community Movie Houses, a great place to relax, eat, and enjoy Western quality cinema at Cambodian prices-- adults pay a $3.50 cover charge per day (kids $2). 

For another dose of Western entertainment, be on the lookout for a monthly comedy act at Club Pontoon, put on by the Phnom Penh Comedy Club. Admission is $7 or get discounted pre-sale tickets at Flicks 1 Movie House.

For those traveling to Vietnam after Cambodia, be sure to get your Vietnam visa through a travel agent rather than the embassy! It ends up costing less because they send it to Sihanookville to be done. We did ours at Lucky Lucky Moto on Monivong Blvd.

Angkor on a Budget: Getting the Most Out of Cambodia’s Majestic Temples

Angkor Wat is the pride of Cambodia, and of the Cambodian people. Believed to be the largest religious complex in the world, it is one of many temples found in and around what used to be the city of Angkor, a metropolis of around 2 million people that was abandoned for unknown reasons. What is left is Angkor Archaeological Park, an UNESCO World Heritage site and Cambodia’s biggest tourist draw. For temple enthusiasts, Angkor is a must-see on the travel circuit. For budget travelers, the $40 three-day admission price may send chills down one’s checkbook, but if  you spend your time wisely, the price is well worth it. Here’s a run-down of our time in Siem Reap, the town just outside of Angkor National Park, and our adventures in the ruins in Angkor.

Siem Reap:

We arrived in Siem Reap from Battambang just in time to meet a friend of mine I met traveling last year in Nepal. The bus ride from Battambang was four hours and cost five U.S. Dollars, and a tuk-tuk ride from the bus to our hotel was one dollar. We stayed at Garden Village Guesthouse, which I recommend. It’s a five minute stroll to the center of town and there are rooms for every budget. We booked two $1 dorm beds on HostelWorld and were surprised to see when we arrived that the beds were outside under a corrugated metal roof! We each got a mattress, a mosquito net, and our very own Cambodian stray kitten. If you’re not down for a little camping though, private rooms are available. If you do the dorms, bring your own padlock for a free locker.

Our "dorm" at Garden Village Guesthouse. Very cozy!

What to do in Siem Reap: The town of Siem Reap can be a bit overwhelming, mainly due to the millions of tuk-tuk drivers desperate for business during the rainy season (I think our record was about 10 yards between subsequent offers from a driver). Most people travel to Siem Reap solely for Angkor, but there are a few gems in the town itself that make up for the overabundance of transportation. One of my favorite parts of Siem Reap was the number of wonderful fair trade shops in the city center. Before you do any shopping in the Old Market or the Night Market (both good for local art, tea, and spices) check out the fair trade shops for more unique gifts and souvenirs that benefit poor or disabled Cambodians. My other favorite was our go-to restaurant, Navi Khmer Kitchen. This is a small, unassuming family-owned shop right down the road from Garden Village Guesthouse on the way to town. The sign outside says Navi Khmer, but the menu says Khmer Cafe Des Sports; anyway, it’s right across from My Best Western Guesthouse and we ate almost every meal there! Go there for $1 breakfasts, 50 cent fruit shakes, yummy Samla Ktiss (traditional soup), and the best pancakes in Cambodia!

The French influence in Siem Reap is lovely!

If you’re going to be around after your Angkor pass expires you might end up booking a tour of the surrounding area. A floating village is nearby, but tours can get pretty pricey. Some tours, including one through our hotel, include a stop at a local orphanage. While this may sound like a nice idea, these tours actually cause more harm than good. A former guest of our hotel who vandalized the sign advertising the orphanage tour summed it up nicely: “An orphanage is not a zoo.”  Before you book any sort of tour please read this article on why orphanages are not tourist attractions.

Angkor Archaeological Park:

Guide books will do a better job of explaining the history of Angkor than I can, so I’ll just stick to what I know, which is the most rewarding way to visit Angkor if you’re traveling on a small budget.

Angkor Prices: When it comes to entrance fees, you have three options: a one-day pass for $20, a three-day pass for $40, or a one week pass for $60. Conveniently, the passes do not have to be used on consecutive days, so if you need a break amid all the temple-hopping, you can feel free to take a day to relax in Siem Reap. I do not recommend getting a one-day pass, as you’ll only have time to see a few of the big hitters and will miss out a lot of the quieter ruins (which were some of my favorites!). If you have time for the week pass, go for it. But for our purposes, the three-day pass was perfect. $40 sounds like a lot, but I’d say it’s a worthy sacrifice to experience this amazing archaeological park!

Transportation to Angkor: There are basically two options, unless you’re with a tour group: tuk-tuk or bicycle. A tuk-tuk can cost anywhere from $12-$15 for a day, depending on how many temples you see. Bicycle rental is a more rewarding and cost-effective method, if more time consuming, at around $1-$2 for a day. We rented bikes for two out of our three days in Angkor and hired a tuk-tuk the other day for $12 ($4 per person). The bicycles limited what we could see somewhat, but we only missed one of the heavy-hitters, Banteay Srei, because it’s over 20km away. If you want to see this one, your best option is to hire a tuk-tuk. Considering we saw everything else we really wanted to see, I’m happy with our decision to rent bikes and discover Angkor at a more relaxed pace.

Angkor Itinerary: Lonely Planet’s guide to Cambodia has some very useful itinerary suggestions, along with descriptions and history of individual sites. We based our itinerary loosely on Lonely Planet’s suggestions. My friend Courtney was only with us for the first two days, so we saw most of the biggies in the main temple group in those two days, saving the most impressive temples for the second day. (Be sure to see our photos of Angkor below!)

Day 1: Banteay Samre, Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Krol Ko, Ta Som, East Mebon

We rented bikes on our first day and visited seven temples North and East of Angkor Wat. Banteay Samre was the farthest ride, so we visited this one first. Rainy season in Cambodia is June through early November, so half of our ride ended up being in the pouring rain. Although we were soaking wet, the rain didn’t dampen our moods, and Banteay Samre proved to be a delightful introduction to the Angkor temples with very few tourists to disturb the serenity. We ate lunch afterwards across the road (where, by the way, they have two menus: a tourist menu with higher prices and a secret low season menu that you may get if you say you’re going to look for somewhere cheaper) and headed to the other six temples. We started with the farthest, Preah Khan, and worked our way back toward the entrance to the park. These six temples are easily accessible from each other as they are all located on the same main road. It was a long and full day, but as long as you get a decent start in the morning you’ll be able to hit all of them! If you must sacrifice any of these temples, Neak Pean and Krol Ko were probably the least impressive; don’t miss the other ones! Ta Som was one of my very favorite temples; make sure you walk all the way to the back and through the stone archway to see a tree that has grown around/become part of one of the structures.

Day 2: Angkor Thom, Angkor Wat, Ta Prom, Pre Rup

The first three in this group are the biggies. If you see anything in Angkor, let it be these ones! The labyrinthine structure and impressive sculptures in Bayon (in Angkor Thom) and the sheer majesty of Angkor Wat warrant quite a chunk of time, so plan on this taking a whole day. We rented a tuk-tuk for this day so we wouldn’t have to leave our bikes outside these very busy temples, each of which can take up hours of your time. We were able to negotiate a $12 price for the four temples, or $4 for each of us.

Day 3: Roluos group: Preah Ko, Bakong, Lolei

Kim and I rented bikes for this day as well, a great way to enjoy the scenery on the 13 km ride from Siem Reap. To reach these temples, take National Road No. 6 heading East until you see a sign on the right for Bakong. Preah Ko and Bakong are on this same road. There’s also a ceramic workshop on this road where Khmer ceramics are made and sold that is definitely worth a look! Preah Ko and Bakong are worth the ride, but it’s a good idea to take a lunch with you so you’re not rushed. To reach Lolei, ride just a little farther on No. 7 and turn left onto a dirt road. This temple is smaller but is worth a look as long as the road isn’t muddy. I’m somewhat less coordinated than Kim and I definitely fell completely over on my bike attempting to navigate the muddy tire tracks!

Eating in Angkor: Expect to pay a little more if you eat in the park. If it’s low season, you may be able to get a discount at some of the restaurants, but we found it was more economical to take lunch with us. When we ate lunch in the park we each paid between 2 and 3 dollars, but a take-away fried egg sandwich from Navi Khmer Kitchen is one dollar and allowed a more leisurely lunch.

Our total cost per person for 3 days in Angkor (admission + transportation): $46

Is it worth it?

Yes! If you think you’ll get templed out before your three days are up in Angkor, think again. The temples of Angkor were built during different time periods and under many different kings, creating diversity among the ruins. Some of the more well-known temples will be flooded with tourists (for good reason), but there are also those lesser known temples whose natural and man-made beauty is combined with serenity that will make you feel like the first person to have stumbled upon them. I could spend pages and pages describing the beauty of the ruins at Angkor, but I think a few pictures will probably do a more efficient job. So here you go! Decide for yourself, but I promise a stop at Angkor will not disappoint!

 

The mother of all temples, Angkor Wat!

Kim hanging out inside Angkor Wat

Bayon, Angkor Thom

Striking a pose in the hallways of Bayon!

Headless giants at Preah Khan

Preah Ko

Kim in front of beautiful Ta Som

Banteay Samre

Real life Jungle Book at Angkor Wat!

Sarah in front of Ta Prom

Sarah at East Mebon

Bakong from across the water

Battambang: A Charming and Laid Back Town

Although Battambang is the second largest city in Cambodia, it is often overlooked by travelers who are more interested in the Angkorian temples of Siem Reap, beaches of Sihanoukville, or city life in Phnom Penh. However, Battambang ended up being one of my favorite stops during our time in Cambodia. With its laid back and relaxed vibe, beautiful French architecture, and easy access to nearby rural villages, it’s easy to understand why many travelers end up staying longer than expected.

Battambang, Cambodia

Visiting the Outskirts of Battambang

During one of our days in Battambang, Sarah and I decided to rent a tuk-tuk for a day. For $12 (which you can split between several people), a driver will take you around to various sights of your choosing outside of Battambang. The first thing on our schedule was to ride the fabled bamboo train, or “Norrie” as it is locally called, that I had often heard of when reading about Cambodia. The Norrie was first constructed in the early 1980s; the Khmer people had just come out from the brutal ruling of the Khmer Rouge and were struggling to repair their country. The roads were in disrepair and there were few means of transportation. The Khmer people invented the Norrie as a practical solution to this. The bamboo construction is a bit flimsy but incredibly strong and can carry things such as rice, vegetables, livestock, or people in medical emergencies. For $5.00, you can take a ride on the bamboo train, which goes surprisingly fast, to a small nearby village and back. 

The bamboo train ("Norrie")

We stopped at the village for about 20 minutes. While wandering around, I somehow managed to have a wasp fly up my skirt and sting me on my leg FOUR separate times. I’ve literally had a nightmare about this exact thing happening to me. I managed to somewhat maintain my composure and not completely panic. However, one of the locals witnessed what happened and told a nice man and woman running a food stand what happened. They all spoke almost no English, but they picked some flowers off a nearby plant and the woman crushed it up and mixed it with some sort of natural oil she had (mint, maybe?). She then brought it over to me and gestured for me to put some of the concoction on the stings, which at this point were swelling up quite badly. I was so grateful for their kindness, and literally within fifteen minutes the swelling had completely disappeared and I could hardly even see where the stings had been! Amazing. This was the first of many times that I experienced the incredible generosity and kindness of the Khmer people. 

After riding the bamboo train, the driver stopped at Chan Thai Chhoeng Winery, the only winery in Cambodia. It was pretty much deserted and after looking at the small section of vines with some green grapes hanging from them, we hopped back into the tuk-tuk and continued on to Wat Ba Nan. You must climb a long and unusually steep set of stairs in order to get to the top of this hill and see the temple, which is mostly in ruins now. It is an interesting thing to see and you can see great views of the area from the top. 

View from the top of Wat Phnom Sampeau

Our last stop of the day was Wat Phnom Sampeau, one of the most interesting stops in Battambang. This temple is located on a beautiful limestone hill southwest of Battambang and is also where some of the killing caves used by the Khmer Rouge are located. The killing cave is an incredibly sad place, but I wouldn’t miss it. There is a skylight in the cave where the Khmer Rouge would bludgeon Khmer people and push their bodies in to fall to their deaths. Inside the cave, there is a glass enclosure holding bones from victims of the Khmer Rouge. After viewing the cave, you can continue to walk up the hill to the top. There is a scenic lookout at the top showing incredible panoramic views of the area. Don’t miss this! Entrance tickets only need to be purchased once at either Wat Phnom Sampeau or Wat Ba Nan for $2.00; the ticket is valid at both sites on the same day. 

Cycling Through the Countryside

Cycling through Basseat village.

Battambang is relatively small and easily walkable. There are several places around town where you can rent bicycles for the day and cycle outside of town to nearby rural villages. Sarah and I rented bicycles for a day from Sunrise Cafe for $1.50 each. We headed out to a place I read about in a local magazine called Prasat Basseat, or the Ruined Ruins. It is a little over 12km (7.2 miles) away, and there  is a lot of beautiful scenery along the way. Since the article I read only provided very general directions to the site, we got a bit lost a few times on the way. At one point, Sarah and I turned down the wrong dirt road and found ourselves in a tiny little village. I stopped to ask a woman if she could point us in the right direction, but she didn’t understand a word of English and didn’t seem to know where the place I showed her on the map was. After a few minutes of smiling, gesturing, and laughing at each other, she called one of her neighbors over to help. He kindly jumped on his motorbike and guided us through a maze of dirt roads to the main road that leads to the Ruined Ruins. Another example of the incredible generosity of the Khmer people.

Prasat Basseat, the Ruined Ruins.

The bike ride out to the Ruined Ruins goes through an endless number of beautiful, intensely green rice paddies and several rural villages. People often waved at us and shouted many friendly “hellos!” in our direction. I think locals were a bit impressed with us for taking bicycles rather than simply hiring a driver for the day as many tourists do. The actual site is very interesting and is just sitting on the side of the road outside of a temple. If you would like to visit the Ruined Ruins, simply cross the bridge over the Sangker River from the main part of town and head north out of Battambang on the eastside river road. Follow this road for a few kilometers until you pass a mosque on the right hand side. A little after the mosque is Norea village; turn right here and go straight on a dirt road that goes through brilliant green rice fields. Follow this dirt road for about 12 kilometers until you reach Basseat village, after which you will come to the site. The Ruined Ruins are on the right side of the road in front of the modern day Wat. If you get a bit lost, don’t be afraid to ask locals for directions. Few speak English, but they are always eager to help! Renting bicycles and doing this day trip on the outskirts of Battambang was a perfect way to enjoy the beautiful scenery, see rural villages, and experience the kindness of the Khmer people firsthand.

Places to Eat in the City

Most hostels and hotels in Battambang offer free pick up from the bus station if you book ahead. There are numerous options in town, and most budget places are conveniently located near Psar Nat, the outdoor market in town. While the French influence is clearly seen in the architecture in Battambang, it is also seen in the food (imagine lots of baguettes!). Two of our favorite places to eat in Battambang were White Rose and Sunrise Cafe. White Rose has a vast selection of both Western and Cambodian foods for reasonable prices. Also, they have a long list of delicious $2.00 ice cream sundaes, which is a big deal because cheap ice cream is not always easy to come by in Southeast Asia! 

Our other favorite hangout place was Sunrise Cafe, a Christian-run restaurant that teaches Khmer women various cooking/baking skills and provides quality jobs for them. There are numerous Christian organizations in Battambang, including a YWAM base, so it is not uncommon to run into foreign missionaries around town. I fell in love with the hamburgers and cinnamon iced coffee at Sunrise Cafe. They also had several pastries that were surprisingly delicious, all for reasonable prices. Definitely worth a stop! One of my favorite memories from the cafe is spending several hours one afternoon eating and reading. It started pouring rain while we were there, and when we finally left we walked into the streets to find the main road back to our hotel completely flooded. We had to wade through nearly a foot of water in order to get back to our hotel. A great memory!

Overall, I absolutely loved our time in Battambang. The laid back vibe of the town is very apparent, and the people are unusually kind. It provides a great base for temple visiting or biking through rural villages on the outskirts of town. Sarah and I had many great experiences in Battambang, and I would urge you not to underestimate the charm and uniqueness of this lovely town!

A Few Helpful Tips:

All ATMs in Cambodia disperse USD instead of Cambodian riel. You can pay using either currency (when we were there, the standard conversion was 4,000 riel to every dollar). You can even mix currencies when paying in most places.

If you want to convert USD to Cambodian riel, the best place to do it is at jewelry stands (which are pretty common and usually have lists of the current exchange rate). These almost always give a better rate than banks. 

It is a little cheaper to pay for things in riel instead of USD, but the difference is so small that the overall difference isn’t very significant. 

Little kids will most likely approach you and offer to guide you to the killing caves or other attractions. Do not accept unless you are willing to pay the $1 that they will each demand at the end of the tour!

Overland Travel Bangkok, Thailand to Cambodia

Here’s the run-down on our overland journey from Bangkok, Thailand to Battambang, Cambodia. It should be useful for those traveling to other areas of Cambodia as well (like Siem Reap or Phnom Penh). 

There are several options for traveling from Bangkok to Cambodia. One is to buy a bus ticket to Poipet, at the border between Thailand and Cambodia. This should cost somewhere around 160 baht, but whatever you do, don’t book a ticket at one of the tourist offices on Kaoh San Road!! Never, ever book tickets on Kaoh San Road. Instead, ask a tuk-tuk driver to take you to one of the government-run tourist information offices and book your ticket there. You’ll get much better deals here on travel all throughout Thailand at these offices because the travel agents don’t make commission. A second option is to take a taxi, which is fast, but will cost an outrageous amount of money.

The other option is much longer, but it’s more affordable and more fun. Trains leave from Hualamphong Train Station in Bangkok for Aranyaprathet (near the border) every day at 5:55 am. Tickets are third class and cost only 48 baht. Get there a little bit early to ensure you have a seat. The train is pretty full toward the beginning of the journey with kids heading to school, but it should thin out after an hour or so. The train ride is about 6 hours long and there are plenty of opportunities to buy food or drinks from women patrolling the aisles between stops.

When you get to Aranyaprathet, you’ll be rushed by tuk-tuk drivers to drive you to the border. Don’t pay anymore than 60 baht! Many drivers will also want to drop you off just shy of the border at an office, where they will offer to take care of your visa. Don’t get your visa here! There are often extra fees (not to say you won’t run into that at the border as well, but more on that later). Just make the short walk to the border, where you’ll probably be directed by an official.

Getting your visa:

Cambodia allows visas on arrival, but you will need to make a few preparations. First, have a passport-sized photo of yourself available for the visa application. Secondly, come prepared with exact change for the fee, preferably in U.S. Dollars (USD is accepted all over Cambodia along with riel!). The visa fee should be no more than $20. However, there are infinite stories of people getting slapped with mystery fees that likely go right into someone’s back pocket. When we applied for our visas there was a hand-written sign on the counter advertising a fee of “700 baht+100 baht,” or about $26 total. The 100 baht fee was a mystery, but after some questioning we were told it was a visa-on-arrival fee. When we questioned further we were told that if we had USD we could just pay $20 plus the 100 baht fee, which would have saved us money. Alas, we had no USD, but we got out of it by showing them 700 baht and saying it was all we had. Finally, they caved. Moral of the story: have a $20 bill and a little baht on you and don’t budge, and you’ll only get a tiny bit ripped off.

Travel beyond the border (and some good news!):

In the past, the transit situation at the border of Cambodia has been nothing short of a mess. Before we arrived we found it difficult to find any sort of clear information on how to get from the border to Battambang. Some sites said there were buses, but only early in the morning. Others said we would have to pay close to $50 for a shared taxi. When we arrived, we found out the government had recently made some changes to make things easier for tourists arriving overland. Here’s the situation as of now (2012): there is a very handy (and free!) shuttle bus from the border to the bus station, where buses and taxis leave regularly for most major destinations. The ticket prices are a little high, but there’s not much of a choice at this point (and it beats paying for a taxi if you’re traveling solo or in a pair). A few tips: have enough U.S. money or baht on you to pay for your ticket (baht is accepted in some parts of Cambodia near the border). You can exchange money for riel at the station, but the exchange rate is terrible and there are no ATMs around. They also don’t accept credit cards. If you have USD, make sure it doesn’t have any rips or tears, or it won’t be accepted.

Here are some prices:

Poipet->Battambang: $10 bus, $45-$50 taxi

Poipet->Siem Reap: $9 bus, $45-$50 taxi

Poipet->Phnom Penh: $15 bus, >$50 taxi

Poipet->Sisophan: $5 bus

Expect bus prices to be more reasonable once you’ve gotten beyond the border (i.e. a ticket from Battambang to Siem Reap is $4).

The budget journey from BKK to Cambodia overland is a long one, but it is worth it! Just keep an eye out for scams and come armed with exact change, and it will be relatively smooth. Happy traveling!