A City in Harmony: Mataram, Lombok, Indonesia

A Hindu Temple and a Mosque in Mataram

Mataram is is West Nusa Tenggara’s sprawling capital, situated on the Western side of the island of Lombok, Indonesia. Mataram is usually mentioned in travel books as the starting point for a journey across Lombok via Mandalika bus terminal. It is extremely spread out, making it less convenient for travelers to get around, thus prompting most tourists to forego the dusty metropolis for the amenity-laden beaches of Senggigi. But a few days in this city unveils cultural treasures well worth the stay and reveals perhaps the greatest achievement of the city: its religious harmony.

The Temples of Mataram

Pura Meru

The Sasak people of Lombok were under the control of the Balinese from the 17th century until the late 19th century when the Dutch intervened. The evidence of Bali’s rule still remains in many of Lombok’s religious heirlooms. Although Lombok is predominantly Muslim, Balinese Hindu temples are still scattered across the island. If one travels from Bali to Lombok they will see the structural similarities in the puras (temples), from the dragon guardian statues to the Candi Bentar, distinct split pillar entrances. We recommend seeing the Pura Meru Temple, the Mayura Water Palace, Pura Lingsar Temple, and the Bertais Market.

Pura Meru: This temple, the largest on Lombok, was just a short walk from our hotel. It was built in 1720 by Anak Agung, a Balinese Prince, in an attempt to unite Lombok. The main entrance opens out to the main road, but when Kim and I attempted to enter here a man informed us that admission was 50,000 rp each. In fact, the temple is by donation and there is no set price, so if someone tries to ask you for a certain amount, do not give it to them. We simply walked to the side road and went in the back way. Two older men directed us to the donation box, where we each deposited 10,000 rupiah and tied the sashes around our waists to enter the inner courtyard of the temple. The courtyard has a feeling of disuse, but the original structures are still breathtaking, and upon further inspection there are Hindu offerings still placed on the meru (shrines) each day.

Shrines at Mayura Water Palace

Mayura Water Palace: This palace was built in 1744, also by the Balinese, and was once part of the Balinese Kingdom’s royal court on Lombok. It is a few minutes’ walk from Pura Meru and, as pointed out to us by one of the workers at Mayura, sits alongside religious centers of varying faiths. A very short walk down the street will take you past Islamic, Hindu, Christian, and Buddhist sites of worship, all coexisting in a peaceful and respectful manner. The same man took us further down the road away from the main street, where we walked through several local communities to a small local handicraft market. On the way we passed both Hindu and Muslim communities separated only by sidewalks or streams. We stopped at one Hindu Temple and, looking over the fence into its courtyard, I could see a local Mosque just beyond it.

Entrance to Mayura Water Palace is also according to donation—don’t feel pressured to give more than you have, the money is simply for upkeep and renovation. Inside is a large artificial lake that locals sometimes fish in or lounge beside. Further in is a courtyard with four incredibly beautiful shrines and a very sweet old man who ardently encouraged us to take pictures (so we did).

Pura Lingsar: If you only visit one place in Mataram, make it Pura Lingsar! This complex, built in 1714, is the holiest place on Lombok and is currently a site of multi-denominational worship that unites the local Wektu Telu religion with Hindu, Buddhist, and Christian faiths. Upon arriving you will be approached by a guide to take you through the temple. Our guide, Gorbang, was very helpful in explaining the significance of Pura Lingsar’s structures and history. You’ll walk through courtyards and past shrines to the inner temple, where you will make a donation and be given a sash. (A note for the ladies: If you’re menstruating you won’t be allowed to enter the temple—and they will ask you.) Inside you’ll see a small pond where, according to legend, a great king once prayed for water during a drought and was granted such when he planted his staff in the ground. Throw some coins over your shoulder into the pond and make a wish! 

You’ll also see the sacred stones that represent wisdom and the outlet of an underground spring that is said to be a sort of fountain of youth with various healing powers. I drank some of the holy water and our guide said afterward that I now looked ten years old! (I feel great, but I’m dreading going through puberty again.) Another courtyard contains symbols of both the Islam and  Hindu religions, and nearby is an area where people of various faiths are able to come pray alongside each other according to their religious traditions. Gorbang said he thinks there is no better place in all of Lombok, and I can see why! The spiritual harmony of Mataram converges marvelously in this ornate and beautiful complex.

Bertais Market

Local goods at Bertais Market

Mataram’s biggest local market is a great place to get a more “local feel” after visiting the temples. Simply walking through row after row of baskets filled with colorful beans, spices, fruit, and dried fish is an experience worth the short bemo ride. But besides the colorful (and pungent) foods for sale, Bertais also has handicrafts for sale at far better prices than you’ll find in touristy areas. Look for the wooden Sasak masks, a favorite souvenir from Lombok!

Travel/accommodation: We arrived in Mataram after our 4 night stay in Gili Air, just off the coast of Lombok’s main island. From the Gilis we took a ferry to Bangsal Harbor (23,000 rp), and public buses as well as shuttle buses run from Bangsal into Mataram. (Note: for public buses, you’ll need to take a horse cart to the main road first. Shuttle bus prices are advertised as 75,000 rp. to Mataram, but I wouldn’t pay any more than 40,000.) When we arrived in Mataram a bemo took us to JL Subak 1 (near Mataram Mall) where we booked a room at Hotel Ayu Jaya, which has a fixed price of 70,000 rp. per room and a lovely female owner who offered to order us fried noodles one night for dinner. This area of Mataram is a great base from which to see the city, as it’s only a short walk or bemo ride to some of the more important religious sites, and you can easily see them all in two days (or 1 if you’re in a hurry). Right across the street from Ayu Jaya is a warung we ate at several times, where you can get great take-away nasi campur for only 10,000 rp (around 1 USD). There are not much in the way of restaurants in this area, so warungs are your best bet, or for breakfast I recommend stocking up the day before at the vendors who set up on the main road during the evening.

Enjoy Lombok! And be sure to check out our general travel tips for Indonesia!