Saturday, December 22, 2012

Getting a Taste for Vietnam: Surfing in Ho Chi Minh City


Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon, was the capital of South Vietnam before the country’s reunification in 1976. As the site of so much history, and as one of Vietnam’s biggest cities, there is a lot to see, learn, and taste in the city that is now beloved Uncle Ho’s namesake.

One word for HCM City's streets: Motorbikes!
After our three weeks in Cambodia, we traveled from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City ($10, 6 hours), the former capital of the Southern republic of Vietnam. The three things that soon came to embody my experience in Vietnam—food, history, and new friends—were overwhelmingly present in this busy, bustling motorbike city!

Our five days in Ho Chi Minh City are basically a testament to the wonders of Couchsurfing. We surfed with a host family in Thu Duc District, a 30 minute bus ride from District 2 (in the city center). Our hosts, a 22-year-old university student and her family, gave us an introduction to Vietnam we will never forget! They went above and beyond, showering us with Asia’s famous hospitality, especially in the form of food—tons and tons of wonderful Vietnamese food! We met our host’s university friends and were even invited to big family dinners with extended relatives, where we sat in a large circle on the floor and ate, drank, and laughed for hours on end. Much of our time was spent with our new friends, buzzing around on the backs of motorbikes to out-of-the-way pagodas, street food stands, and local coffee shops. One of my favorite nights was spent on the roof of a cafe near the airport, where the planes flew right over our heads as they came in for landing! We truly had an unforgettable experience, and looking back on our five days in HCM City, it seems like two weeks. Because of Couchsurfing we were able to experience much more in a short amount of time than if we were on our own, and we left feeling as if we were leaving family. Because of our new friends, I learned that Ho Chi Minh City can be an engaging and dazzling place with the right people guiding you. The lesson here? Make local friends whenever possible! Couchsurfing.org is the perfect place to do this. I will never forget the amazing hospitality of our Vietnamese family in Ho Chi Minh City! Here’s a little of what they taught us:
Kim and our host sister Queeny eating street food in University Village

Vietnamese street food:

Street food is a normal part of most Vietnamese people’s daily lives, and local eateries with their own specialties can be found almost everywhere. Some of my favorite meals in Vietnam were on plastic chairs and concrete, and our hosts in HCM City took a lot of time in teaching us about local foods. Here are a few of my favorite street foods we tried in Ho Chi Minh City:
  • Phở (pronounced “fuh”): This classic Vietnamese rice noodle soup is a staple throughout Vietnam, but you’ll find it tastes different in the North and the South (it’s a bit sweeter in the South). It is customarily served with fresh herbs, like basil and mint, halved limes, and fish and chili sauces that you can add to taste, and can include chicken (phở ga) or beef (phở bo). Many people eat it for breakfast, but it can be eaten at any time of the day. This is a must-try anywhere in Vietnam!
  • Bánh tráng nướng: This is made with a round, thick piece of rice paper filled with various ingredients, rolled, and cooked on a small grill. We ate this delicious snack in University Village, and it contained a simple medley of veggies, chili sauce, and a healthy dose of the staple Vietnamese fish sauce.
  • Ram bắp: Delicious Vietnamese hand rolls, usually with meat inside. Our host mom made these often for dinner and I could never get enough of them!
  • Tàu hũ đá: This is an iced soy drink our host introduced us to that can include various candied fruits and flavored gelatins. A unique desert!
  • Cà phê: Vietnamese coffee is some of the best in the world, and is uniquely prepared in Vietnam with a phin, a drip filter similar to a french press that filters the coffee straight into the cup. It can be served over ice (cà phê đá) and is normally prepared with sweetened condensed milk. This sweet milk coffee can be hot (cà phê sữa nóng) or iced (cà phê sữa đá) and is another must-try anywhere in Vietnam!

What to do in Ho Chi Minh City:

Reunification Palace
We split our time in Ho Chi Minh City between the city center (mainly districts 1 and 2) and Thu Duc district. While most travelers don’t find a reason to head to Thu Duc, I loved our time in this part of the city. Thanks to our wonderful new friends, we had the opportunity to experience Ho Chi Minh City in a very different light. During our five days, I didn’t see a single other tourist in Thu Duc. It’s a great place to try traditional Vietnamese food and chat with the super friendly locals! Local bus fare from Thu Duc to the city center is around 25 cents.

This isn’t to say we didn’t get our tourist on in HCM. We started at the Reunification Palace (or Independence Palace), which used to be the administration center for South Vietnam’s government. The palace has been kept exactly as it was when North Vietnamese troops breached the main gate on April 30, 1975, down to a replica of the tank on display toward the front of the palace. Admission to the palace is 30,000 dong per person and includes a free guide. Our tour took around half an hour and we got to see all the most important parts of the palace, including some very vintage and important-looking underground control rooms! It definitely feels like stepping back in time!

Beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral
Just a few blocks away from the Reunification Palace is the beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral, constructed in the late 1800s by French colonists. The beautiful brick red building was made with materials imported from France, and the statue of Mary at the front of the cathedral is stunning. This cathedral will definitely be a welcome taste of home for Catholic or European travelers, and it’s a great place for photos! There is an English mass every Sunday at 9:30 am and the church is surrounded by some very classy restaurants, coffee shops, and bakeries.

A protest poster on display at the
War Remnants Museum
About ten minutes’ walk from the Reunification Palace and Notre Dame Cathedral is my favorite tourist site in Ho Chi Minh City, the War Remnants Museum (admission 15,000 dong). If there is one must-see attraction in HCM, I’d say this is it. The museum was created as an anti-war museum and aims to raise awareness about the atrocities of war, specifically the atrocities and war crimes committed during the American-Vietnamese war in the 1970s. The museum includes exhibits on worldwide protest of the Vietnam war and war propaganda, American war crimes, and a heartbreaking and informative exhibit on the use of chemical weapons by the U.S. Army. Those expecting an objective and detached approach from museums won’t get this at the War Remnants Museum; the pain, destruction, and insanity of war experienced by both the Vietnamese people and U.S. soldiers in Vietnam is boldly on display in this museum with a very specific agenda: to encourage peace in Vietnam and around the world. I would especially recommend this museum to American travelers to get a Vietnamese perspective on the war.

A short walk in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City is enough to discover the importance of a single man in the history of divided and unified Vietnam. The image of the city’s namesake, Ho Chi Minh (or Uncle Ho as he is affectionately called by locals) can be seen on red banners throughout the city, especially around the Reunification Palace. Our friends recommended we learn more about Uncle Ho by visiting Dragon House/Ho Chi Minh Museum. This isn’t a very popular tourist stop, and we saw almost no tourists there when we visited. While it’s not the most exciting place, from what I gathered from our friends, it’s an important building to locals because of it’s relation to Ho Chi Minh. This building, which Uncle Ho himself passed through on his way to his famous sojourn to Europe and America, is named the dragon house for its architecture. The museum includes personal items of Ho Chi Minh and a detailed history of his life and political path organized chronologically into several rooms on the second floor. My favorite part was the top floor, where many poems Ho Chi Minh wrote while in prison are on display—a very beautiful exhibit! Admission to Dragon Palace is 10,000 dong.

Shopping in Saigon:

The main shopping hub in Ho Chi Minh City is Ben Thanh Market, a sprawling shopping center with clothes, handicrafts, textiles, and local food. The market is in downtown HCM City across from the main public bus terminal in an impressive pale yellow building. You’ll be able to find just about any souvenir you need here, but expect to haggle. Our friends suggested we go to the old post office, just across the street from Notre Dame Cathedral, to buy souvenirs at fair prices. There are just a few small shops inside, near the entrance of the post office, but for those uncomfortable with haggling, the prices are fixed and fair.

Happy traveling!

Sunday, December 9, 2012

General Travel Tips: Cambodia


Here’s your one-stop-shopping, bullet point style rundown on Cambodia travel!
  • Watch out for mystery fees at the Poipet border crossing. Walk in with exact change for the visa fee ($20), preferably in US dollars, and 2 passport sized photos for your visa application. Have extra USD on you for a bus ticket at the Poipet bus station, as there are no ATMs and a poor exchange rate.
  • US dollars are widely accepted in Cambodia as well as Cambodian riel, and ATMs dispense USD. It’s a good idea to have some riel on you at all times, but you won’t lose money if you pay with US currency.
  • Exchange money at local exchange stands instead of banks for a better rate.
  • Bike rental is often the cheapest and most rewarding form of transportation in Cambodia. Most bikes cost only one dollar a day and it’s a great way to see the country’s beautiful scenery.
  • Don’t leave Cambodia without visiting some of the historical sites related to the infamous Khmer Rouge Regime, an important part of Cambodia’s history that happened very recently. Phnom Penh is a great place to do this.
  • At some historical sites (i.e. the Killing Caves outside Battambang), cute little kids will offer to show you around, or naturally assume the position of tour guide. If you accept their services, be prepared to give each of them (even their friends tagging along) one dollar. They may be cute, but keep in mind the impact encouraging extortion in little kids might have on their future.
  • LGBTQ Travelers: Cambodians are generally accepting of homosexuality, but keep in mind that public displays of affection (heterosexual or homosexual) are a cultural no-no!
  • Before you consider signing up for a tour of an orphanage, please read this article on why orphanages are not tourist attractions.
  • You may encounter street children in some of Cambodia’s cities. Please do not give them money, as this does not help kids get off the street, and often the money goes directly to a handler or a pimp instead of necessities for the child.
  • Always bargain, but make sure you do it with a smile! You’ll do much better that way.
  • If you are traveling to Vietnam from Cambodia, get your visa at a travel agent in Phnom Penh instead of the embassy—it’s cheaper!
  • Most of the water is brackish, so unless you have your own filter, expect to buy bottled water. Another eco-friendly option is to bring your own reusable water bottle and have it filled at restaurants or convenience stores that offer to fill water bottles.
  • As always, keep your valuables on you at all times while traveling! Don’t leave cameras/laptops/cash/passports in luggage that is stowed underneath the bus or in an overhead compartment. Keep it right on your person to prevent it from being stolen.
  • Watch that handbag! In Phnom Penh there are occasionally “drive-by muggings,” men on motorbikes who ride by and snatch shoulder bags from people. One incident tragically ended in a woman being pulled into traffic and killed. Keep your bags secure, or at least away from traffic!
  • What to buy in Cambodia: Paintings of Angkor or watercolors of floating villages and scenes from rural life; fair trade handicrafts; kramas (multi-purpose scarves worn throughout Cambodia); Angkor t-shirts.

Monday, December 3, 2012

The Many Flavors of Phnom Penh: What to do in Cambodia's Capital


Phnom Penh, while not a particularly large city, holds enough sights and activities to keep any traveler busy for a few days or a week. Cambodia’s capital is a good place for shopping and chilling out eating happy pizzas by the riverside, but most importantly it is the best place to learn about the Khmer Rouge Regime and the tragic events that took place in Cambodia from 1975-1979. For this reason alone it is an essential stop on your tour of Cambodia!

We arrived in Phnom Penh on a bus from Siem Reap, a 5 hour ride costing $6. We couchsurfed during our stay at a home just Southwest of the tourist center, around the corner from Tuol Sleng Prison Museum, but most travelers to Phnom Penh stay by the riverside. A tuk-tuk to Riverside from the main bus station should be no more than $2. Riverside is charming and filled with cafes and restaurants, but be sure to move a bit inland to find cheap food. Street food vendors also turn up during the evenings to save you a few bucks.

What to do in Phnom Penh:

Shopping: There are two large markets in Phnom Penh, Psar Thmei (central market) and the Russian Market. Psar Thmei is well-known by locals for being overpriced, so any deals to be had are at the Russian Market. Don’t let this stop you from bargaining, however. As a tourist you’ll still be overcharged, but you’ll get a better deal than at the central market. Psar Thmei carries more clothing, knock off designer items, and jewelry, and the Russian Market is more plentiful in local art. Both markets carry essentially the same handicrafts you’ll find anywhere in Cambodia: wood products, handmade puppets, and ceramics to name a few. Both markets also carry electronics, most notably some knock-off Beats By Dre headphones for under $40. We met an expat at the Russian Market who’s been buying them for his grandkids for years and swears by their reliability, but we’ve also heard of people only getting a few weeks of use from them before they fell apart. Be sure to open the box and try the headphones out on your iPod before you buy them. Make sure the cord is thick and sturdy looking-- some knock-offs are visibly better quality than others. It also doesn’t hurt to ask if you can get your money back if the headphones stop working in a few days. You can also get local food and yummy smoothies at both markets (seriously, try the smoothies!), including fried crickets and tarantulas at Psar Thmei! Kim and I tried a bit of both and decided they taste similar to barbecue shrimp. If markets aren’t your scene there are some decent fair trade shops and thrift stores just south of Riverside on Street 240, near a candy store called Chocolate.

Kim chowing down on a fried tarantula we bought outside Psar Thmei
Cultural/Historical Sites: Three easy attractions of historical/political importance are the Royal Palace, Independence Monument, and the National Museum. Independence Monument is ten minutes walk from Riverside, and though it won’t take up much time it’s an impressive sight on the way to or from Tuol Sleng Museum (more on that later). The Royal Palace and the National Museum are both very close to riverside, and both have entry fees. Kim and I decided the $6.50 entrance fee at the Royal Palace wasn’t worth it, as visitors are only allowed to see certain parts of the grounds (and not even the most impressive parts). However, most reviews of the palace are positive. If you have the time and money it will be worth it. But if you’re on a tight budget and have already toured some of the main temple attractions in Thailand, don’t feel bad skipping it. The National Museum (admission $3) is a worthy visit for those interested in Cambodian sculpture, religious history, or ancient customs. The museum mainly displays sculptures, many of them recovered from the temples at Angkor, along with artifacts from archaeological excavations and burial sites.

Outside the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh
Learning About the Khmer Rouge Regime: Phnom Penh is one of the best places in Cambodia to learn about the infamous Khmer Rouge Regime, which was responsible for the deaths of around 1/4 of Cambodia’s population from 1975-1979. While traveling in Cambodia, encounters with survivors of this brutal regime are guaranteed, as anyone in their late 30s or above was around when Cambodia’s cities (including PP) were emptied and thousands of citizens were sent to forced labor camps or secret prisons. Today, Cambodia and its people seem to be rising from the ashes of this recent tragedy, and many Cambodians have dedicated themselves to educating locals and foreigners alike of the genocide they endured in order to prevent similar atrocities in the future. For travelers to Cambodia, it’s incredibly important to understand this period of time, not only to understand Cambodia’s history but also to appreciate the astounding gentleness and optimism of the local people. The most infamous of the Khmer Rouge secret prisons was called S-21, and is now the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh. Choeung Ek, the most infamous Cambodian killing field is also just outside of Phnom Penh, and all but a few of the 20,000 prisoners of S-21 were executed there.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum is a high-school-turned-secret-prison
Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek can be visited in one day, but we split it into two days because each site is an overload of both information and heartbreak. At Tuol Sleng we roamed through the hallways of what used to be a high school, it’s rooms and corridors now converted into rows of individual cells, and saw pictures of the thousands of prisoners once held there. At Choeung Ek we roamed through the quiet, grass covered area where thousands of bones were found buried after the Khmer Rouge fell out of power. Many of those bones are on display in a beautiful memorial building in the middle of the field. Admission for Tuol Sleng is $2, and is extra for a tour guide. Choeung Ek has lately been privatized, which troubles many as it seems profit is being made on the back of a tragedy. This may be so, but the grounds are very well kept by the staff, and the $5 admission fee includes an excellent and informative audio tour. I learned more at Choeung Ek about the Khmer Rouge regime than anywhere else. We hired a tuk-tuk to take us the 20 minute drive to Cheong Ek for $11. I wouldn’t advise paying any more than $12.

Cheong Ek Memorial
Suggested Itinerary for Phnom Penh

How much time you spend in Phnom Penh is up to how busy you want to stay. Here’s a suggested itinerary if you only have two full days at your disposal:

Day 1: Have a city map handy, which you’ll be able to get from most hotels. Start off by taking a tuk-tuk to the Tuol Sleng Prison Museum. Budget at least two hours here to take everything in (including a short video shown twice a day, once at 10 am). The walk from Tuol Sleng back to Riverside is fairly straightforward and you can take in some sights on the way. First, stop off for lunch at the excellent Chinese Noodle Restaurant on Monivong Blvd, not far from the museum. Kim and I ate lunch here several times and it was our favorite meal in Phnom Penh! The noodles are excellent, as are the dumplings, and you get to watch them make the noodles right outside! Continue walking toward Riverside and pause at Independence Monument for some photo ops. Finally, hit up the Royal Palace or the National Museum for an hour or so to end your day.

Noodles from the Chinese Noodle House- yum!!
Day 2: Start your day by getting a tuk-tuk to Cheong Ek Killing Field, a 20-minute drive. Budget several hours for this, as you’ll want to take your time. After finishing up here, get back to Riverside for the happy hour at Tutti Frutti (1-3pm). Kim and I got big bowls of frozen yogurt after our tour of Cheong Ek to cheer us up, because ice cream fixes everything! For something to do at night, catch a movie at one of the Flicks Community Movie Houses, a great place to relax, eat, and enjoy Western quality cinema at Cambodian prices-- adults pay a $3.50 cover charge per day (kids $2). 

For another dose of Western entertainment, be on the lookout for a monthly comedy act at Club Pontoon, put on by the Phnom Penh Comedy Club. Admission is $7 or get discounted pre-sale tickets at Flicks 1 Movie House.

For those traveling to Vietnam after Cambodia, be sure to get your Vietnam visa through a travel agent rather than the embassy! It ends up costing less because they send it to Sihanookville to be done. We did ours at Lucky Lucky Moto on Monivong Blvd.

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Angkor on a Budget: Getting the Most Out of Cambodia’s Majestic Temples


Angkor Wat is the pride of Cambodia, and of the Cambodian people. Believed to be the largest religious complex in the world, it is one of many temples found in and around what used to be the city of Angkor, a metropolis of around 2 million people that was abandoned for unknown reasons. What is left is Angkor Archaeological Park, an UNESCO World Heritage site and Cambodia’s biggest tourist draw. For temple enthusiasts, Angkor is a must-see on the travel circuit. For budget travelers, the $40 three-day admission price may send chills down one’s checkbook, but if  you spend your time wisely, the price is well worth it. Here’s a run-down of our time in Siem Reap, the town just outside of Angkor National Park, and our adventures in the ruins in Angkor.

Siem Reap:

We arrived in Siem Reap from Battambang just in time to meet a friend of mine I met traveling last year in Nepal. The bus ride from Battambang was four hours and cost five U.S. Dollars, and a tuk-tuk ride from the bus to our hotel was one dollar. We stayed at Garden Village Guesthouse, which I recommend. It’s a five minute stroll to the center of town and there are rooms for every budget. We booked two $1 dorm beds on HostelWorld and were surprised to see when we arrived that the beds were outside under a corrugated metal roof! We each got a mattress, a mosquito net, and our very own Cambodian stray kitten. If you’re not down for a little camping though, private rooms are available. If you do the dorms, bring your own padlock for a free locker.

Our "dorm" at Garden Village Guesthouse. Very cozy!

What to do in Siem Reap: The town of Siem Reap can be a bit overwhelming, mainly due to the millions of tuk-tuk drivers desperate for business during the rainy season (I think our record was about 10 yards between subsequent offers from a driver). Most people travel to Siem Reap solely for Angkor, but there are a few gems in the town itself that make up for the overabundance of transportation. One of my favorite parts of Siem Reap was the number of wonderful fair trade shops in the city center. Before you do any shopping in the Old Market or the Night Market (both good for local art, tea, and spices) check out the fair trade shops for more unique gifts and souvenirs that benefit poor or disabled Cambodians. My other favorite was our go-to restaurant, Navi Khmer Kitchen. This is a small, unassuming family-owned shop right down the road from Garden Village Guesthouse on the way to town. The sign outside says Navi Khmer, but the menu says Khmer Cafe Des Sports; anyway, it’s right across from My Best Western Guesthouse and we ate almost every meal there! Go there for $1 breakfasts, 50 cent fruit shakes, yummy Samla Ktiss (traditional soup), and the best pancakes in Cambodia!

The French influence in Siem Reap is lovely!

If you’re going to be around after your Angkor pass expires you might end up booking a tour of the surrounding area. A floating village is nearby, but tours can get pretty pricey. Some tours, including one through our hotel, include a stop at a local orphanage. While this may sound like a nice idea, these tours actually cause more harm than good. A former guest of our hotel who vandalized the sign advertising the orphanage tour summed it up nicely: “An orphanage is not a zoo.”  Before you book any sort of tour please read this article on why orphanages are not tourist attractions.

Angkor Archaeological Park:

Guide books will do a better job of explaining the history of Angkor than I can, so I’ll just stick to what I know, which is the most rewarding way to visit Angkor if you’re traveling on a small budget.

Angkor Prices: When it comes to entrance fees, you have three options: a one-day pass for $20, a three-day pass for $40, or a one week pass for $60. Conveniently, the passes do not have to be used on consecutive days, so if you need a break amid all the temple-hopping, you can feel free to take a day to relax in Siem Reap. I do not recommend getting a one-day pass, as you’ll only have time to see a few of the big hitters and will miss out a lot of the quieter ruins (which were some of my favorites!). If you have time for the week pass, go for it. But for our purposes, the three-day pass was perfect. $40 sounds like a lot, but I’d say it’s a worthy sacrifice to experience this amazing archaeological park!

Transportation to Angkor: There are basically two options, unless you’re with a tour group: tuk-tuk or bicycle. A tuk-tuk can cost anywhere from $12-$15 for a day, depending on how many temples you see. Bicycle rental is a more rewarding and cost-effective method, if more time consuming, at around $1-$2 for a day. We rented bikes for two out of our three days in Angkor and hired a tuk-tuk the other day for $12 ($4 per person). The bicycles limited what we could see somewhat, but we only missed one of the heavy-hitters, Banteay Srei, because it’s over 20km away. If you want to see this one, your best option is to hire a tuk-tuk. Considering we saw everything else we really wanted to see, I’m happy with our decision to rent bikes and discover Angkor at a more relaxed pace.

Angkor Itinerary: Lonely Planet’s guide to Cambodia has some very useful itinerary suggestions, along with descriptions and history of individual sites. We based our itinerary loosely on Lonely Planet’s suggestions. My friend Courtney was only with us for the first two days, so we saw most of the biggies in the main temple group in those two days, saving the most impressive temples for the second day. (Be sure to see our photos of Angkor below!)

Day 1: Banteay Samre, Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Krol Ko, Ta Som, East Mebon
We rented bikes on our first day and visited seven temples North and East of Angkor Wat. Banteay Samre was the farthest ride, so we visited this one first. Rainy season in Cambodia is June through early November, so half of our ride ended up being in the pouring rain. Although we were soaking wet, the rain didn’t dampen our moods, and Banteay Samre proved to be a delightful introduction to the Angkor temples with very few tourists to disturb the serenity. We ate lunch afterwards across the road (where, by the way, they have two menus: a tourist menu with higher prices and a secret low season menu that you may get if you say you’re going to look for somewhere cheaper) and headed to the other six temples. We started with the farthest, Preah Khan, and worked our way back toward the entrance to the park. These six temples are easily accessible from each other as they are all located on the same main road. It was a long and full day, but as long as you get a decent start in the morning you’ll be able to hit all of them! If you must sacrifice any of these temples, Neak Pean and Krol Ko were probably the least impressive; don’t miss the other ones! Ta Som was one of my very favorite temples; make sure you walk all the way to the back and through the stone archway to see a tree that has grown around/become part of one of the structures.

Day 2: Angkor Thom, Angkor Wat, Ta Prom, Pre Rup
The first three in this group are the biggies. If you see anything in Angkor, let it be these ones! The labyrinthine structure and impressive sculptures in Bayon (in Angkor Thom) and the sheer majesty of Angkor Wat warrant quite a chunk of time, so plan on this taking a whole day. We rented a tuk-tuk for this day so we wouldn’t have to leave our bikes outside these very busy temples, each of which can take up hours of your time. We were able to negotiate a $12 price for the four temples, or $4 for each of us.

Day 3: Roluos group: Preah Ko, Bakong, Lolei
Kim and I rented bikes for this day as well, a great way to enjoy the scenery on the 13 km ride from Siem Reap. To reach these temples, take National Road No. 6 heading East until you see a sign on the right for Bakong. Preah Ko and Bakong are on this same road. There’s also a ceramic workshop on this road where Khmer ceramics are made and sold that is definitely worth a look! Preah Ko and Bakong are worth the ride, but it’s a good idea to take a lunch with you so you’re not rushed. To reach Lolei, ride just a little farther on No. 7 and turn left onto a dirt road. This temple is smaller but is worth a look as long as the road isn’t muddy. I’m somewhat less coordinated than Kim and I definitely fell completely over on my bike attempting to navigate the muddy tire tracks!

Eating in Angkor: Expect to pay a little more if you eat in the park. If it’s low season, you may be able to get a discount at some of the restaurants, but we found it was more economical to take lunch with us. When we ate lunch in the park we each paid between 2 and 3 dollars, but a take-away fried egg sandwich from Navi Khmer Kitchen is one dollar and allowed a more leisurely lunch.

Our total cost per person for 3 days in Angkor (admission + transportation): $46

Is it worth it?

Yes! If you think you’ll get templed out before your three days are up in Angkor, think again. The temples of Angkor were built during different time periods and under many different kings, creating diversity among the ruins. Some of the more well-known temples will be flooded with tourists (for good reason), but there are also those lesser known temples whose natural and man-made beauty is combined with serenity that will make you feel like the first person to have stumbled upon them. I could spend pages and pages describing the beauty of the ruins at Angkor, but I think a few pictures will probably do a more efficient job. So here you go! Decide for yourself, but I promise a stop at Angkor will not disappoint!


The mother of all temples, Angkor Wat!
Kim hanging out inside Angkor Wat

Bayon, Angkor Thom
Striking a pose in the hallways of Bayon!
Headless giants at Preah Khan

Preah Ko

Kim in front of beautiful Ta Som

Banteay Samre

Real life Jungle Book at Angkor Wat!

Sarah in front of Ta Prom

Sarah at East Mebon
Bakong from across the water


Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Battambang: A Charming and Laid Back Town


Although Battambang is the second largest city in Cambodia, it is often overlooked by travelers who are more interested in the Angkorian temples of Siem Reap, beaches of Sihanoukville, or city life in Phnom Penh. However, Battambang ended up being one of my favorite stops during our time in Cambodia. With its laid back and relaxed vibe, beautiful French architecture, and easy access to nearby rural villages, it’s easy to understand why many travelers end up staying longer than expected.

Battambang, Cambodia

Visiting the Outskirts of Battambang

During one of our days in Battambang, Sarah and I decided to rent a tuk-tuk for a day. For $12 (which you can split between several people), a driver will take you around to various sights of your choosing outside of Battambang. The first thing on our schedule was to ride the fabled bamboo train, or “Norrie” as it is locally called, that I had often heard of when reading about Cambodia. The Norrie was first constructed in the early 1980s; the Khmer people had just come out from the brutal ruling of the Khmer Rouge and were struggling to repair their country. The roads were in disrepair and there were few means of transportation. The Khmer people invented the Norrie as a practical solution to this. The bamboo construction is a bit flimsy but incredibly strong and can carry things such as rice, vegetables, livestock, or people in medical emergencies. For $5.00, you can take a ride on the bamboo train, which goes surprisingly fast, to a small nearby village and back. 
The bamboo train ("Norrie")

We stopped at the village for about 20 minutes. While wandering around, I somehow managed to have a wasp fly up my skirt and sting me on my leg FOUR separate times. I’ve literally had a nightmare about this exact thing happening to me. I managed to somewhat maintain my composure and not completely panic. However, one of the locals witnessed what happened and told a nice man and woman running a food stand what happened. They all spoke almost no English, but they picked some flowers off a nearby plant and the woman crushed it up and mixed it with some sort of natural oil she had (mint, maybe?). She then brought it over to me and gestured for me to put some of the concoction on the stings, which at this point were swelling up quite badly. I was so grateful for their kindness, and literally within fifteen minutes the swelling had completely disappeared and I could hardly even see where the stings had been! Amazing. This was the first of many times that I experienced the incredible generosity and kindness of the Khmer people. 

After riding the bamboo train, the driver stopped at Chan Thai Chhoeng Winery, the only winery in Cambodia. It was pretty much deserted and after looking at the small section of vines with some green grapes hanging from them, we hopped back into the tuk-tuk and continued on to Wat Ba Nan. You must climb a long and unusually steep set of stairs in order to get to the top of this hill and see the temple, which is mostly in ruins now. It is an interesting thing to see and you can see great views of the area from the top. 

View from the top of Wat Phnom Sampeau
Our last stop of the day was Wat Phnom Sampeau, one of the most interesting stops in Battambang. This temple is located on a beautiful limestone hill southwest of Battambang and is also where some of the killing caves used by the Khmer Rouge are located. The killing cave is an incredibly sad place, but I wouldn’t miss it. There is a skylight in the cave where the Khmer Rouge would bludgeon Khmer people and push their bodies in to fall to their deaths. Inside the cave, there is a glass enclosure holding bones from victims of the Khmer Rouge. After viewing the cave, you can continue to walk up the hill to the top. There is a scenic lookout at the top showing incredible panoramic views of the area. Don’t miss this! Entrance tickets only need to be purchased once at either Wat Phnom Sampeau or Wat Ba Nan for $2.00; the ticket is valid at both sites on the same day. 

Cycling Through the Countryside

Cycling through Basseat village.
Battambang is relatively small and easily walkable. There are several places around town where you can rent bicycles for the day and cycle outside of town to nearby rural villages. Sarah and I rented bicycles for a day from Sunrise Cafe for $1.50 each. We headed out to a place I read about in a local magazine called Prasat Basseat, or the Ruined Ruins. It is a little over 12km (7.2 miles) away, and there  is a lot of beautiful scenery along the way. Since the article I read only provided very general directions to the site, we got a bit lost a few times on the way. At one point, Sarah and I turned down the wrong dirt road and found ourselves in a tiny little village. I stopped to ask a woman if she could point us in the right direction, but she didn’t understand a word of English and didn’t seem to know where the place I showed her on the map was. After a few minutes of smiling, gesturing, and laughing at each other, she called one of her neighbors over to help. He kindly jumped on his motorbike and guided us through a maze of dirt roads to the main road that leads to the Ruined Ruins. Another example of the incredible generosity of the Khmer people.

Prasat Basseat, the Ruined Ruins.
The bike ride out to the Ruined Ruins goes through an endless number of beautiful, intensely green rice paddies and several rural villages. People often waved at us and shouted many friendly “hellos!” in our direction. I think locals were a bit impressed with us for taking bicycles rather than simply hiring a driver for the day as many tourists do. The actual site is very interesting and is just sitting on the side of the road outside of a temple. If you would like to visit the Ruined Ruins, simply cross the bridge over the Sangker River from the main part of town and head north out of Battambang on the eastside river road. Follow this road for a few kilometers until you pass a mosque on the right hand side. A little after the mosque is Norea village; turn right here and go straight on a dirt road that goes through brilliant green rice fields. Follow this dirt road for about 12 kilometers until you reach Basseat village, after which you will come to the site. The Ruined Ruins are on the right side of the road in front of the modern day Wat. If you get a bit lost, don’t be afraid to ask locals for directions. Few speak English, but they are always eager to help! Renting bicycles and doing this day trip on the outskirts of Battambang was a perfect way to enjoy the beautiful scenery, see rural villages, and experience the kindness of the Khmer people firsthand.

Places to Eat in the City

Most hostels and hotels in Battambang offer free pick up from the bus station if you book ahead. There are numerous options in town, and most budget places are conveniently located near Psar Nat, the outdoor market in town. While the French influence is clearly seen in the architecture in Battambang, it is also seen in the food (imagine lots of baguettes!). Two of our favorite places to eat in Battambang were White Rose and Sunrise Cafe. White Rose has a vast selection of both Western and Cambodian foods for reasonable prices. Also, they have a long list of delicious $2.00 ice cream sundaes, which is a big deal because cheap ice cream is not always easy to come by in Southeast Asia! 

Our other favorite hangout place was Sunrise Cafe, a Christian-run restaurant that teaches Khmer women various cooking/baking skills and provides quality jobs for them. There are numerous Christian organizations in Battambang, including a YWAM base, so it is not uncommon to run into foreign missionaries around town. I fell in love with the hamburgers and cinnamon iced coffee at Sunrise Cafe. They also had several pastries that were surprisingly delicious, all for reasonable prices. Definitely worth a stop! One of my favorite memories from the cafe is spending several hours one afternoon eating and reading. It started pouring rain while we were there, and when we finally left we walked into the streets to find the main road back to our hotel completely flooded. We had to wade through nearly a foot of water in order to get back to our hotel. A great memory!

Overall, I absolutely loved our time in Battambang. The laid back vibe of the town is very apparent, and the people are unusually kind. It provides a great base for temple visiting or biking through rural villages on the outskirts of town. Sarah and I had many great experiences in Battambang, and I would urge you not to underestimate the charm and uniqueness of this lovely town!

A Few Helpful Tips:

All ATMs in Cambodia disperse USD instead of Cambodian riel. You can pay using either currency (when we were there, the standard conversion was 4,000 riel to every dollar). You can even mix currencies when paying in most places.

If you want to convert USD to Cambodian riel, the best place to do it is at jewelry stands (which are pretty common and usually have lists of the current exchange rate). These almost always give a better rate than banks. 

It is a little cheaper to pay for things in riel instead of USD, but the difference is so small that the overall difference isn’t very significant. 

Little kids will most likely approach you and offer to guide you to the killing caves or other attractions. Do not accept unless you are willing to pay the $1 that they will each demand at the end of the tour!

Saturday, November 10, 2012

The Travel Playlist


Anyone who knows me will tell you I have a playlist for almost everything: Christmas parties, birthday parties, driving, doing homework, cleaning the house, etc. But these days one of my favorite playlists to make is a travel playlist. I first discovered the power of the travel playlist last year when I spent two months in Nepal. My friends and I unwittingly created our own travel playlist just by listening to the same few albums over and over. The effect this had was to create in my mind an association between the songs and Nepal. To this day I can’t listen to Mumford and Sons or Lady GaGa without being taken back in time to Kathmandu. It also gave the three of us something to share with one another; it contributed to our group dynamic and created a certain mood between us.

For me, the purpose of the travel playlist is to create a certain mood for my trip. How do I want my music to make me feel as I’m biking on the backroads of Cambodia or gazing out the window of a train in Thailand? I also want to purposely create an association between certain songs and my travels, so all I have to do to reminisce is turn on a song. I think of it like a movie soundtrack, and I ask myself the question “If my life was a movie, what would the soundtrack be?” and then I make a playlist accordingly.

A travel playlist can be made several ways. One way is simply by listening to certain albums or artists repeatedly like we did in Nepal. For example, Kim has been listening to a lot of The Civil Wars, Needtobreathe, Damien Rice, Mumford and Sons, Colbie Caillat, and Mat Kearney. Another way is to create a mix with many different artists but a common mood or theme. In order to do this, ask yourself what mood you want for your trip and start skimming iTunes for possibilities. I usually add way too much to a playlist at first and then trim it down later. Since our trip is seven months long I opted to make two playlists with different moods, just in case I tired of one. In my iTunes they are simply labeled “Asia” and “Asia 2.”

My Travel Playlists:

My “Asia” playlist is meant to be soothing and inspiring, kind of like a Julia Roberts movie, and includes bits and pieces from all of the following artists: Alanis Morissette, Augustana, Branches, Bright Eyes, Brooke Fraser, Chemistry, Citizen Cope, Coldplay, Damien Rice, Fun., Gungor, Ian McIntosh, Iron & Wine, Jon Foreman, Lynrd Skynrd, Mat Kearney, MeWithoutYou, Mumford and Sons, Needtobreathe, OneRepublic, Regina Spector, Robert Plant & The Strange Sensation, Sufjan Stevens, M83, Florence + The Machine,The Paper Kites, The Verve, The Fray, and The Head and the Heart.

My “Asia 2” playlist, which I listen to less often, is meant to be upbeat and exciting, as if to say “Hey, look at how cool my life is!” It includes songs from the following artists: Aerosmith, Angels & Airwaves, A.R. Rahman, The All-American Rejects, Calvin Harris, David Guetta, Eric Hutchinson, Falling Up, Flo Rida, Fun., Ingrid Michaelson, Jason Derulo, Jonny Lang, Lady GaGa, Lenny Kravitz, Matisyahu, Mat Kearney, MGMT, Michael Franti & Spearhead, Moby, Nicki Minaj, OneRepublic, Passion Pit, Pitbull, Relient K, Selena Gomez, Switchfoot, Train, The Vines.

The important thing is that I listen to music I want my trip to be associated with. I also need to take care of myself, and music often has a strong affect on mood. On a long trip away from home can sometimes be trying. I find that if I’m frustrated, tired, or homesick, all I have to do is pop in my Asia playlist to get me feeling a little more cheerful. And if I forget what an incredible opportunity I have by traveling, I listen to “Asia 2” and get to feeling awesome again. So goes the magic of the travel playlist!

For me, good music on any trip is essential. Before you strap on your backpack consider what mood you want your journey to have, and listen accordingly!

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

iPod Touch: The 21st Century Travel Companion

When Sarah and I first began planning our backpacking trip through Asia, I was very resistant to the idea of bringing any electronics with me (aside from my camera, of course). My parents mentioned the idea of getting an international phone, but I refused to consider doing so. I wanted to do it the old fashioned way and didn’t want to be reliant on a little handheld device. 

Well, one day I came across several forums in Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum with numerous backpackers raving about how the newest version of the iPod Touch is the perfect travel companion. So, I decided to give the idea a little more consideration and got ready for some hardcore researching. 

To be honest, I was pretty much sold on the idea after looking at the endless number of awesome travel apps available for the iPod Touch. The only thing I was at all nervous about before leaving home was dealing with homesickness while being gone. That being said, my main reason for using the iPod Touch while traveling was so I could stay in contact with loved ones easier. In hindsight, I know I made the best decision and our travels would be significantly more difficult without this little device. And after you read the list of awesome travel apps we’ve been using, I’m pretty sure you’ll be sold on it as well! Here's our run-down on how to use your iPod Touch while you travel:
4th generation iPod Touch

iPod Touch: 4th Generation

Yes, I am aware Apple recently released the 5th generation iPod Touch (it’s fine, I’m not       bitter...). However, the 4th generation iPod Touch was the latest version available before we  left, and it has proved to be more than sufficient. But if money is not a huge issue for you (the 5th generation iPod Touch currently has a higher price tag than the 4th generation), then the 5th generation iPod Touch may be worth it for the significantly improved camera, fun colors it comes in, and other cool improvements! 

Both generations of the iPod Touch have a built-in microphone and camera (both incredibly useful!). It’s perfect for those unexpected photo ops when traveling or for using as an alarm clock when you have those early morning buses to catch. Most apps that are available for the iPhone are also available for the iPod Touch. Click here for more specific details on both models!

Ten Great Travel Apps for the iPod Touch 

You can find an app for essentially anything you can possibly think of.  Aside from the obvious must-have apps like Skype, Facebook, Instagram, and an app connecting to your email, there are several other apps that have been particularly helpful during our travels. Here is a list of my favorite ten apps that I downloaded, after intense research and deliberation, before heading out on our backpacking adventure!

1. textPlus
Free
This app has become my favorite app on the iPod by far. It offers unlimited free texts to any US or Canadian mobile number, allowing Sarah and I to contact loved ones on a normal basis. Once you download this app, you are assigned a phone number that others can text you back on. You can only send and receive texts while in a wifi zone (if someone texts you while you are not in a wifi zone, you will simply receive it the next time you enter one). 5 stars for this app!

2. Kindle
Free
When you are traveling and carrying your life in a backpack for months at a time, every extra pound can make a difference. So leave the books at home and download this Kindle app instead! There are many Kindle editions of books available on Amazon to download for free (and others for a price), particularly classics. Just search “free kindle books” on Amazon.com to find these gems, and stock up! Some of my favorite freebees have been: Les Miserables, A Tale of Two Cities, Pride and Prejudice, The Scarlet Letter, and various Agatha Christie books!

3. Google Translate
Free
This app allows you to translate text between 64 different languages. It requires that you be in a wifi zone when looking up words or phrases, but you can conveniently star your favorite translations and access these when you are offline. Many of the languages even offer the option to listen to a recording speak the text aloud. Perfect!

4. Convert Free
Free
This app is particularly useful if you are from the United States, the only industrialized country in the world that does not use the metric system. This app allows you to quickly and easily convert between all different types of units. Just a few of the conversions offered are kilometers to miles, Celsius to Fahrenheit, grams to ounces, and many more. 

One of our Diptic collages!
5. Diptic
$0.99
Diptic allows you to create collages from your photos that can then easily be shared with friends and family via Facebook, Twitter, email, and more. It offers a vast number of layouts, different border effects, and 14 optional filters to use. It’s a fun and effective way to share travel photos with loved ones at home!

6. Pano
$1.99
Pano allows you to effectively capture many of the stunning views you will undoubtably come across during your travels! You can connect up to 16 photos and create huge 360-degree panoramas. It helps you to easily line each shot up with the last one via an effective transparent guide. Finished panoramas are then automatically saved to your iPod Touch so you can easily share it with others!

7. Postagram
Free
Postagram turns awesome pictures from your travel adventures into a quality postcard you can have delivered to family or friends by mail. You can even add a personalized message on it! It costs $0.99 per postcard and arrives within days.

8. Mint.com
Free
First of all, if you do not already have a Mint.com account you need to make one immediately after reading this article. Mint.com is a personal finance website that allows you to manage your money, budgeting, bills, and expenses in one convenient location (and it’s free!). You can connect all of your bank accounts, credit cards, loans, and more on this website so that you can easily keep track of your financial situation and manage it from one convenient location. Seriously, I can’t rave about this website enough. The app is basically just an on-the-go version of this website and is incredibly useful when you are a budget backpacker needing to keep track of every dollar!

Our budgeting envelopes on EEBA
9. EEBA
Free
EEBA is a budgeting app that has helped me stay on track financially during our travels. You can create different envelopes with specific budgets for various aspects of your travels. For example, I have envelopes for hostels, food, ground transportation, visas, and more, with specific budgets for each one. The app allows you to record separate transactions within each envelope so you can easily keep track of exactly where your dollars are being spent. 

10. XE Currency Converter
Free
This awesome app converts between pretty much any currencies in the world. It was once named app of the week on iTunes and has been featured on BBC, the Travel Channel, and CNN! It automatically updates conversion rates when you enter a wifi zone and stores the latest rates for use when you are offline. You can monitor up to 10 different currencies at one time. Need I say more?

A Few More Tips

As soon as you get your iPod Touch, make sure you download the Find My iPhone app. This app allows you to use another iOS device to locate your iPod on a map if it gets lost or stolen. You can also display a message on it, have it play a sound, lock the device, or erase all the data on the device for your protection. If iOS 6 is downloaded on your iPod Touch you can also put your missing device in “Lock Mode,” which locks it with a four digit password while displaying your contact number on it. Pretty cool! 

If you are traveling out of the country for an extended period of time, there is a good chance you will be using Skype pretty often. Download the free Skype app and research the various options for calling your home country while away. For the cheapest rates, sign up for a Skype subscription; you pay for it monthly and can terminate the subscription at any point. I am currently subscribed for unlimited calls to U.S. cell phones and landlines for $2.99/month. However, Skype’s special offers change relatively often, so check their website for current offers. Click here to see your different options for skype subscriptions or click here to see what special offers they currently have.

Now that you have the low-down on the benefits of traveling with the iPod Touch, you can make a more well-rounded decision on whether or not this will be a worthwhile travel investment for you. Even with all the awesome apps on it, my main (and most valued) use for it is to contact my family and friends easily. I can call them, text them, or send pictures to their cell phones with ease. Trust me, if you haven’t already considered purchasing one of these handy devices for your travels or are a little hesitant like I was, you may want to give it a second thought. After all, this is the 21st century, right?

*For those of you thinking of moving to another city/country, check out this great article on how to use your iPhone apps to navigate your new home!