Koh Phangan's [In]famous Full Moon Party

Imagine you’re at this fantastic party. Not only does it have all the basic elements of a good party—good music, good drinks, good food—but it is one of those rare social gatherings that’s full of just as many good people as it is cold beers. A new friendship is just as likely to form as a case of alcohol poisoning, and hugs and laughter are being shared along ill-chosen words. With three DJs to choose from and enough good company to keep you busy for days, time flies, and no one seems too concerned about going home. Now look to your right, and instead of seeing a secondhand couch filled with college students, you’ll see a pristine beach, the perfect circle of the full moon reflecting brightly on the water.

This is Koh Phangan, Thailand’s famous Full Moon Party, an all-night party event that signifies for it’s goers not only a good time, but a spiritual experience. Young and old (but mostly young) come from all over to attend this party, which is actually the climax of numerous pre-parties and after-parties in the days leading up to and after the full moon every month. Around full moon time, the entire southern part of this small island becomes a party-goer’s paradise. Tourists literally flood the island, booking all the boats, ferries, and hotel rooms, leaving some to sleep on the beach during high season. One only has to walk a short distance on the main road to see the signs advertising any excuse at all for a party: Half Moon Party, Silver Moon Party, Floating Bar Party, Jungle Party, Waterfall Party, etc. In short, if you’re looking to blow off some steam, look no further than Koh Phangan.

Getting There

Kim and I headed to Koh Phangan after our time in Phang Nga Town. A bus from Phang Nga to Suratthani leaves every morning and cost 150 baht. In Suratthani, ferry tickets or fast boat tickets to Koh Samui and Koh Phangan can be bought right off the bus from ticket agents who will most likely approach you as soon as you arrive (unless you book ahead). Kim and I bargained a little bit and got two fast boat tickets to Koh Phangan for 850 baht (425 each), including bus transfer from Suratthani to the pier. The journey took about 1.5 hours and we arrived on the island in the late afternoon.

When you get to the island you’ll be bombarded by about 7,000 taxi and motorbike drivers to take you to your hotel. The going rate is usually 100 baht, depending on where you’re going. Haad Rin (where the party takes place) and Baan Kai (a few kilometers West of Haad Rin, where we stayed) are both 100 baht per person for a shared taxi/van.

The beach in front of our hotel in Baan Kai

Like I said, we stayed in Baan Kai. This wasn’t exactly by choice; we forgot to book a room until a few days before the party. By then it was slim pickings. It all worked out fine and we enjoyed our stay at Green Peace Bungalows, which is right on the beach. But if you want our advice, book your room early!! And if you’re there for the party, Haad Rin is the place to be. Baan Kai isn’t too far from Haad Rin, but it is barely walkable. We’re hardcore, so we walked the distance to get to the Full Moon Party, but we made that decision before we knew how many hills there were. Plan wisely.

The island itself is beautiful and deserves a few days of your time, either for some extra exploring, or to rest up before/after the Full Moon Party. My favorite part was the beach by our hotel, which was filled with thousands of tiny little snails, all different colors and patterns, like they had been hand-painted! There was also a cool little sandbar we could walk right out to in order to get a great view of the island.

The Party

The Full Moon Party takes place on the Southeastern part of the island in Haad Rin. The party gets started after sundown, but the area is filled with shops, restaurants, and bars that play American movies and Family Guy on repeat. We showed up in the afternoon to get some food and hang out on the beach before it got too crowded. Make sure you arrive before 7, or you may get asked to pay 100 baht to enter the party.

Haad Rin, pre-party

Kim and I sat on the relatively small beach at Haad Rin while the sun went down, waiting to see party-goers fill the area. Before sunset vendors started setting up “bucket stands,” all decorated with unique (and sometimes inappropriate) names to attract tourists. A plastic bucket that includes ice, a bottle of liquor, and 1-2 mixers sells for around $5. Almost the entire beach was lined with bucket stands, encouraging playful gimmicks and cheap prices to stay ahead of the competition. Alcohol isn’t all you’ll see for sale on the beach. Food vendors selling barbecued meat, corn, and sweets also set up on the far ends of the island, and body painting stations ensure that the bright green and orange Full Moon Party t-shirts scattered throughout the crowd aren’t the only neon around.

Around 7:30 I began wondering if this thing wasn’t all it’s cracked up to be. The trickle was slow at first, so Kim and I wandered toward some of the many fire-throwers performing on the beach, and before long I was hypnotized. When I finally looked up, the beach had all of the sudden filled with people. I was amazed that so many people could fit on one little beach—and it wasn’t even high season! Kim and I floated in and out of three dance floors that had spontaneously formed, observing what seemed to be every possible type of person, from frat boys with blue clown wigs to parents with their children (which is a personal choice I won’t get into). No matter who it was, they were there simply to have a good time. There was one guy I just couldn’t get over, who danced with everyone in the crowd without ever straying from the same dance move, and was so good-natured about it I could have hugged him (but I didn’t). We ended up on the edge of the crowd, where we met a great group of people from Spain and the United States, with whom we instantly became friends and spent the rest of our night. Easy peasy.

Unfortunately, a lot of our pictures of the Full Moon Party were deleted in a tragic “Will-you-take-a-picture-of-us-in-front-of-this-cool-thing?” incident, so we only have a few snippets to show you. But the memories I have from this relatively short event are so unique I’m sure I will not soon forget them!

A few tips:

Leave your valuables locked in your hotel room, and keep what money you bring close to you (no off-the-shoulder bags). Pickpocketers abound in Haad Rin!

Watch your drink! Ruffies are no laughing matter, y’all.

Be cautious around the fire-throwers the later the night gets. Thousands of drunk people+fire+darkness=potentially really bad memories.

Get to the beach just before sundown to watch the crowds pour in and avoid unnecessary entrance fees.

Stick to the buddy system.

Be cautious, but also have fun! The Full Moon Party is a place to let go of inhibitions. Go with the flow, and come with an open mind!

For a list of Full Moon Party Dates click here.